Notes relating to the Dominican Friary, in Kenwyn Street, and to St. Mary's Church, Truro, by Mr. Spry. Read July 3rd. 1840.
The rudely sculptured stone which I have added to the museum of this Institution, is the only vestige worth preserving of the ancient residence of the Dominicans, found in the excavations lately made in the neighbourhood of Kenwyn Street. It appears to have formed the capital of a small pillar, and was discovered with many smaller fragments of chiselled stone work and portions of human bones, a little behind, and to the east of the premises now called the Western Inn, the site usually assigned to that religious edifice. Nor is it likely that common report can have erred much in this respect in little more than a century, as Hals states that when he was collecting materials for his Parochial History, parts of the chapel and consecrated well, were then standing. It is to be regretted that he left no description of it, by which its precise locality can be determined, and I am therefore desirous of marking out the place whilst the circumstances attendant on the recent alterations in that neighbourhood, are fresh in the recollection of observers. The space between the western part of Kenwyn Street and the river, was until within the last ten years, a fertile meadow, called "The Friary," which is now intersected from north to south by Castle Street, and from east to west by Frances Street, crossing each other at right angles. From the discovered remains it appears that the Friary and Chapel were placed within the lines described by the eastern side of Castle Street, after its intersection by Frances Street, and between the south side of the latter and Kenwyn Street, but the consecrated Well was a little further up the valley, in the rear of the houses now forming a continuation of Frances Street, westward, called Ferris town; and I recollect when a boy to have examined the spot with great curiosity, on account of the marvellous cures said to have been effected by the use of its water, especially of sore eyes. No stonework was then traceable, but there was a heap of rubbish on each side of the pit almost completely covered with grass, sufficiently indicating its locality ; - a beautiful stream of water issued from it which now passes behind the houses described.
Our information respecting this establishment is now become very scanty, and we are indebted principally to the 'Notitia Monastica' of Bishop Tanner, for the statement that it was founded in the latter part of the reign of Henry III. (say about 1250) by the ancestor of one Rauf Reskimer, who in 1463, left a benefaction to it, and that at the dissolution of the smaller religious houses and chantries, in the reign of Edward VI., it was granted to Edward Aglionby. William of Worcester in his 'Itinerarium' through Cornwall in 1460, mentions his having visited it and inspected the Martyrology, a copy of which he has recorded.
It is well known that the "Fratres prædicantes" were the missionaries of the Roman Church, and that the Dominicans were foremost in zeal as in persecution. Wherever the people were congregated at stated periods whether for amusement or commerce, there a preaching station was commenced and finally a cross was erected, the much abused emblem, in in their hands, of that religion which was ushered in with the announcement of "peace on earth and good will toward men." These crosses in most places were of a very rude character, but were sometimes raised into very substantial and well finished edifices, and the "market cross," as it was afterwards called, if set up in the market place, or the "high cross," if its architecture entitled it to that appellation, became the fixed points of attack upon the flocks of the regular clergy, as little to their contentment probably as the labours of itinerant preachers are regarded by some of their apostolically - descended successors in modern times. The large area at the western end of the church still retains the name of the "High Cross," where all the Fairs were formerly held, until the destruction of the castle, left a more appropriate space for them on the hill. These crosses however were for the most part demolished by the misdirected zeal of the early reformers, the fanatics of the commonwealth finishing the work of destruction ; but in a few old towns in the interior some of these elegant structures have fortunately been preserved. According to the success of their mission, they sometimes caused the erection of more convenient places of worship, and it is very probable that we owe to the zealous efforts of these Dominicans, the handsome and capacious building, in which for more than three centuries the sublime truths of Christianity have been proclaimed, which yet remains in a remarkable degree of preservation, to constitute the chief ornament of our town.
the church of st. mary, in this Borough, cannot fail to strike the most superficial observer, as presenting many incongruities in the style of its architecture, but it must be recollected that the work was accomplished at different periods, and that as it was commenced at the "costs and charges of the inhabitants and other pious benefactors,"* so in all probability, the great approaching crisis of the reformation, dried up the sources from which these funds were derived, and left this church in the unfinished condition, in which many more important ecclesiastical buildings remain to this day, in different parts of Christendom, especially as regards their western fronts and towers. As it is, the exterior presents as striking a contrast to the interior, as the western front and steeple do to the rest of the building.
The south and east fronts are elaborately finished, in the fashion which prevailed in the latter part of the reign of Henry VII., to which period competent judges had assigned the erection of the church, from the character of the workmanship, and from the supporters and quarterings of the Royal Arms of England, delicately sculptured over the niche between the two chancel windows, evidently intended as a place of honour for the image of "our lady". This opinion was strengthened by the following inscription, (perhaps only the artist's name) recorded on one of the windows in the south front, the second from the west, which carries the probable completion of the body of the church, into the next reign. It is painted on the glass as follows WILLmo. 1518. But these conjectures which prove to have been pretty accurate, are confirmed by the discovery of the following deed, by which Sir John Arundell grants permission to the inhabitants of Truro, to dig for stone at his manor of Truro Vean, for the purpose of building "a churche and a newe towre" in the parish of our lady, under certain conditions which are sufficiently curious to merit notice, and as no allusion has ever been made to this document by any of our topographers, I have subjoined a copy of it verbatim,
"Thys Indenture made at Truru the vi daye of Maye the xix yere of Kyng Henre the vii (1504) wytnessyth that Sir John Arundell knyght of his owne mere gracious mocion hath gevyn and by thys present indenture hathe graunted in the worship of God and of owre ladye towarde the byldynge of the churche and of a newe towre in the pyshe (parish) of owre ladye of Truru as manye stonys as shall be nedefull and necessarye to be had for the byldynge of the sayde churche and towre in his quarraye of Truru-vyhan and also the sayde Sir John Arundell gevyth and gntyth (granteth) for hym hys heyrys and executours full power and awtoryte by thys p'sent to all the inhabytants of Truru and to all other in ther name for the sayde worke ther to draw stonys dygge the growndes and to breke the sayde grownde for sechyng (searching) of the sayde stonys to begyne in the west syde of hys grownde in Truru-vyhan ther as the sayde quarrye ys begon and so to folowe the lode of the sayde stone as shall be necessarrye and behowfull (expedient) for them unto the tyme the sayde worke be full fynyshed made and endyd prydyd (provided) always that the sayde inhabytants and other shall make no waste nedyr to take the pasture of the sayde grownde as comyn saving in the brede and lenthe of the sayde quarrye as ys nedefull for them and there to breke the sayde grownde for the serchynge of the sayde stones also the sayde Sir John Arundell pmyseth and graunteth for hym and all his heyrys and executors to the sayde inhabytants and all other in their name for the pfyne (performing) of the sayde worke to have fre incommynge and fre outgoynge unto and fro the sayde quarrye with all manner of bests and carryage as shall be necessarye for them and their servants to carye away the sayde stones and the ryddynge (refuse) of the same without anye irnpedement or let of hym hys hyrys or ex'ors or else of anye other in hys name unto the tyme that theye be full satysfyed of all such stones as shall be nedefull for them to have for the byldynge of the sayde worke and the sayde inhabitants shall praye for the p'servacion of the sayde Sir John Arundell my lady hys Wyfe and all thers In wytness hereof as well the seal of the sayd Sir John Arundell as the comyn seale of the sayde borughe severally to thys indenture have been putt the day and yere above sayde."
To this document only one seal, that of the "borughe", is now affixed, and it does not appear that Sir John's seal had been set to it. It is a document which suggests some interesting reflections, not the least of which is the omission of "God's worship" in the original text, as the words interlined ["God and of"] were written in a different hand and with different ink, serving to show us that in the minds of the Roman Catholics at that period, the worship of "our lady" and of the saints occupied the most prominent place, and that the spiritual worship of the "one living and true God" had been supplanted by mere human inventions - that the substance had been neglected for the shadow. And to this degree of debasement, "Mary - worship" as it has been very properly called, the Roman Church had arrived, before the light of the reformation shone forth, to cleanse the Christian Church from some of the gross errors with which it was then overloaded. This deed is in the possesion of Mrs. Taunton, widow of the late Dr. Taunton, and was kindly lent for the purpose of copying it, whence obtained I do not know. This Sir John Arundell was of Trerise, in Newlyn, and in all probability was the same person described by Leland as the possessor of Gwarnak, in St. Allen, formerly the residence of Boville or Beville, through whose heiress it passed to Sir John, and the arms of the two families are yet preserved in the painted glass of the window in the south chancel, viz. an ox gules for Boville, and five swallows in pile argent, three, two, and one for Arundell. Hals says, "that the church was built at the proper costs and charges of the inhabitants, and other pious benefactors, and that the arms of Tregian, Trenoweth, Carmenow, Edgecombe and others, were in his time to be seen in the windows, and that in the north window were the arms of John Earl of Cornwall, together with the badge and motto of the Dukes of Cornwall." A few of these yet remain, but the rest were swept away about the year 1747, when a series of changes was commenced, which altered altogether the character of the interior of the building, - these
".......Storied windows richly dight
Casting a dim religious light,"
were not to the taste of certain authorities then paramount, and they were accordingly modernized ; large quantities of the painted glass taken away were used by the children as toys. But as regards the stones granted by Sir John, it is evident that they could have been used only for the north walls, and for filling up the piers on the south and east, as Truro Vean affords neither sand-stone, nor granite, of which the sculptured fronts are composed. The spot from which the stone was obtained, was in all probability, immediately behind the farm buildings above Moresk mill, where a large depression of the surface may yet be seen, and these premises are still rated in the parish books of St. Clement, as the "Quarry premises."
The Church consists of a north and south aisle, communicating by a line of eight well proportioned arches, and a smaller north aisle, in the front of which, are three arches of the same size as the others. The length of the Church within the walls, from the chancel to the outer door of the belfry, is 118 feet; its width, from the north to the south wall 38 feet; the length of the smaller north aisle 421/3 feet, and its width 13½
"Jesu fili David, tu solus nobis via veritas vita,"
thus recording the firmness of their belief in the great Protestant doctrine of the sole mediation of the Saviour, and the finished character of his "one offering for sin."
An old book in black letter formerly excited great curiosity which was found in the parish chest with a large chain attached to it, and various were the interpretations given of its nature and use. It is a volume containing many of the sermons preached before Queen Elizabeth at Paul's Cross, by the celebrated Bishop Jewell, the great champion of Protestantism, his famous controversy with Dr. Cole, the Jesuit, his "Defence of the apology of the Church of England," &c., which were ordered to be read in churches, for which purpose, the book was fastened by the chain to the reading desk.
The following is a list of the Rectors of the parish of St. Mary, from the earliest record of the appointment of any to the present time, and although it differs a little from the list given by Mr. Polwhele, it will be found to be correct:
William Drake, Rector from 1601, to 1609,
William Dawsons, Rector from 1610, to 1624,
George Phippen, Rector from 1625, to 1647,
John Tingcombe, Rector from 1648, to 1663,
Josias Hall, Rector from 1663, to 1666,
Samuel Thomas, Rector from 1667, to 1691,
Robert Cobert, Rector from 1692, to 1693,
Simon Paget, Rector from 1693, to 1711,
(Master of the Grammar School,)
Joseph Jane, Rector from 1711, to 1745,
(Ditto,)
St. John Eliot, Rector from 1746, to 1770,
(The founder of the two exhibitions for scholars from Truro School at Exeter College, Oxford.)
Charles Pye, Rector from 1771, to 1802,
Thomas Carlyon, Rector from 1802, to 1826,
Thomas Stackhouse Carlyon, Rector from 1826, to 1833,
Edward Dix, Rector from 1833, to 1339,
WilliamWoodis Harvey, Rector from 1839,
The revenue of the Rectory is derived from various sources, and the amount is small when the onerous duties attached to it are considered ; it arises from tithes, legacies, the pew rents of the chancels, Easter-offerings, surplice-fees, voluntary augmentations of the offerings, lately much increased by an annual subcription. In addition to these, the Corporation of Truro pay to the Rector for the time being, the annual sum of £22, and how this is derived will be presently explained. Formerly the Corporation exercised a supreme controul not only over the municipal but also over all parochial affairs; they appointed the churchwardens and the overseers of the poor, and when they thought proper they interfered with the duties of these functionaries; in this way, it is most probable, they became possessed of the legacies of pious benefactors to the church, and contented themselves by paying the Rectors the annual stipends for the gift sermons. Feelings of discontent appear to have broken out every now and then between the parties, and so far back as 1693, some contention must have taken place, as the following minute is found in the Corporation order book, dated Sept. 13th in that year, "Ordered and agreed, that the Mayor for the time being, or his steward or receiver of the revenue of the said Borough, shall pay and satisfy unto Mr. Simon Pagett, clerk, during his Rectorship of St. Mary, £20 yearly, which is to be deemed and taken to be in full satisfaction of the gift sermons, by any way or means due or payable out of the said Borough, or by any other person as the gifts or donations of the benefactors of the said Borough."
Then again, in 1747, (April 3,) it was "Ordered, that £22, should be paid to the Rev. Samuel Walker, (then the eminent curate of the Rev. St. John Eliot, Rector of St. Mary and Ladock,) for a year's gift-sermons and town donation, ended the 19th day of November last; - that is to say, the sum of £10, will it is apprehended, be about the amount of gift sermons, and the £12, be a donation from the Borough, the said sum to be paid Mr. Walker, yearly, on the 9th of November, until some further order be made herein." This sum is still paid to the Rector, but how the difference arose in the amounts of the two sums said to be due from gift sermons, remains to be explained.
The following list of donors of legacies for preaching sermons, is preserved: - 1. Mr. Richard Robarts. 2. Mr. John Burges. 3. Mr. Francis Gregor, 4. Mr. Henry Gregor. 5. Mr. Henry Cousins. 6. Mr. Henry Williams. 7. Mr. Martyn Robarts. 8. Mr. Gerrnaine Griest. 9. Mr. Henry Williams. 10. Mr. John Resuggan. These are the 10, for which the Corporation pay the Rector the £10 annually, as mentioned in the former resolution. In addition to these, Mr. John White, merchant tailor of London, by his will dated Aug. 24th 1670, directs "that twenty-shillings be given to some able divine, for a sermon to be preached in Truro Church, on Sept. 2nd in every year, in acknowledgment of God's great mercy, who beyond all men's expectation, preserved so great a part of the city from the devouring flames, which was on that day kindled in the midst of the city of London, which none could set a stop to, but an omnipotent power, who set its bounds which it could not pass, which was an astonishing mercy to all beholders." This Mr. White was a native of Truro, but having settled in London, he acquired a considerable property there, which escaped the ravages of the great fire. He charged his lands in and near Truro, with an annual payment of £12 10s., to be laid out in various charitable ways, viz.: twenty-shillings as already described, three-shillings and six-pence to the clerk, and two-shillings and six-pence to the sexton, and twenty-four shillings to be distributed to the poorest widows and others inhabiting Truro; the remainder, being £10, he willed should be given by his executors, by and with the advice of the Mayor and Churchwardens of Truro, towards the placing forth of two poor children, to some good employment, of the poor ot Truro, and the next year one child was to be selected from Kenwyn street, and one from St. Clement street, by and with the advice of the Churchwardens, and so alternately to be divided between Truro and the two adjoining parishes. These lands have since passed into the hands of Sir Charles Lemon, whose steward pays the money as directed bv the will.
Mrs. Grace Pendarves, left an annuity payable out of certain Tin bounds, now in the possession of the Rev. Canon Rogers, whenever the profits of the said Tin bounds should amount to £10 per annum, but this bequest has not been paid for many years.
Mrs. Grace Percival, left twenty-one shillings to be paid annually to the Minister of St. Mary, which is duly paid by E. W. W. Pendarves, Esq., M. P.
Mrs. Joanna Hickman, left £100 in the 3 Per cent, reduced annuities, to the Rector of Truro, which legacy now stands in his name and is paid through the Miners Bank. During the Rectorship of Mr. Pye, the new burial ground for the use of the parish of St. Mary, opposite Trehavern, was inclosed and consecrated, and an arrangement was made with him by the Parishioners, that in consideration of the extra trouble to which he would be put by performing the duties there, he should be paid £12 12s. a year, and this payment was continued until the time of the Rev. Edward Dix, who, in consequence of some demur made to this charge being included in the amount of disbursements out of the Church rate, made a most advantageous exchange for the Rector by giving up this demand, for the rents of the pews in the south chancel, amounting to nearly £20 per annum.
The tithes of the parish have been just commuted into a rent charge, of £30 14s. payable to the Rector, for the whole parish except the glebe, the tithes of which have been merged. The surplice fees are stated to amount to about £40 per annum, for although many of the inhabitants of St. Mary, are interred in the adjoining parishes of St. Clement and Kenwyn, yet a greater number from these parishes are interred in the burial ground of St. Mary.
The Easter offerings, were raised in the time of Mr. Dix to about £60, the pew rents of both chancels, amount to about £30. Mrs. Hickman's legacy, Mrs. Percival's, and Mr. White's make up £5 Is. as already described. Since the appointment of the present highly esteemed Rector, a subscription has been made by his congregation, to augment his income by £100 per annum, in order to retain his much valued services, and to induce him to decline the acceptance of the living of Marystow, most handsomely offered him by J. H. Tremayne, Esq. of Heligan, so that even at present from all these sources the annual revenue falls below £300.§
The parochial registrations of births, deaths and marriages, were some of the first fruits of the reformation, as they were commenced in 1538, but without the means of ensuring accuracy, and of preventing fraudulant erasures and abstractions, so effectually provided for by the registration act, which came into operation, July 1st 1837. The registers of the parish of St. Mary, begin in 1597, and are continued without interruption in baptisms, marriages and burials, to the present day. They are in a state of rare preservation, and were made in Latin until 1647. Under date of Oct. 15th 1600, is recorded the burial of "John Hodge, Ludi-magister Burgi de Trurow," a functionary happily long since obsolete. In the register book, is the following entry of the appointment of a Registrar for Marriages for the town and neighbourhood, dated Nov. 15th. 1653, marriage having been declared a civil contract during the commonwealth, or having been at least made optional, for such tender consciences as objected to the idolatry of the ceremony according to the old form, to be married before the justice of the peace if they liked it better. How little is there new under the sun!
"We the Mayor and Burgesses and other inhabitants of the Parish and Borough of Truro, do hereby declare that we have made choice of John Bagwell, to be Registrar of this town - witness our hands hereunto subscribed the day and year above written. Sworn and approved the day and year above written, J. Daniell," then follows the certificate of a marriage to this effect.
"Richard Garland, the son of Thomas Garland, of the parish of St. Daye, was married the day and year above written, unto Mary Bramshaw, of the parish of Verrian, in the presence of Jacob Daniell, Esq., Justice of the Peace for the County, and many other witnesses." These entries continued to be made up to 1656; the Parish Registers being kept up at the same time as formerly.
The only charity recorded on the walls of the church is the following.
"Be it remembered that James Kempe, Senr. member of the Corporation of Truro, did by his will give £5, to be distributed yearly on Christmas eve by the Rector of Truro, in sums of 5s. each to 20 poor persons resident within the Borough of Truro."
A Mr. Andrew Brice, who had formerly resided at Truro, published a "Grand Gazetteer" at Exeter, in 1759, in which speaking of Truro Church, he says "this good old gothic edifice wants a handsome tower, the pitiful little thing which contains a single bell looking rather like a pigeon house than a church tower." This had no doubt been felt by the inhabitants to be a great deficiency, and measures were accordingly taken, which induced the corporate body at a meeting held in 1765, to pass the following resolution; -
"Whereas a steeple has been this day agreed to be erected near and adjoining to the church of this borough by way of ornament, and it appears that a steeple would be more ornamental at the west end of the church than a tower, it is ordered that the sum of £500, be paid by the stewards of this borough out of the revenues thereof, into the hands of the present mayor, for and towards the erecting of such steeple", according to the plan delivered in by Mr. Thomas Edwards. In 1766, a further sum of £280, was ordered to be advanced, for the carrying on of the work, and £70 was afterwards paid to the architect, for his plans and superintendence. It appears that the steeple was finished in 1769, from an entry in the churchwarden's book, dated August 9. "Gave the men when they finished the steeple two shillings and six pence." The height of the steeple from the pavement is about 125 feet. In 1770 the Corporation presented the town with the clock, which was made by Mr. Richard Wills. In the same year the great bell was given to the parish by Viscount Falmouth, as appears from an inscription on it. It was cast by Messrs. Pack and Chapman, of London, and could not have cost much less than £150. The little bell as it is called, was made by the same parties at the expense of the parish, and cost £47 15s. 9d.; deduct for old bell £40 10s. so that the balance against them was only £7 5s. 9d. These two bells are never rung together but in case of fire, to alarm the inhabitants. The tone of the great bell has been very much admired. The present vane was fixed on the steeple in February, 1810. In the churchwardens book is the following entry ; "gave John Barker, mason, £15 15s, for taking down the old and placing a new vane on the steeple."
The little burial ground, as that space was called, between the south and east fronts of the church and the street, was inclosed with iron rails about 1754, and the church yard, on the western side of the church, in which formerly grew on each side a double row of elm trees, was not inclosed with iron palisades until 1824, the cost of which, was defrayed partly by subscription, and partly by a loan, advanced by the Cornish Bank, repaid out of the annual church rate.
The interment of the inhabitants of a rapidy increasing town, in the small areas just mentioned, and in the church, was felt at last to require some check; and a new burial ground became absolutely necessary. A part of a meadow belonging to the corporation near Castle Hill, was given to the parish of St. Mary, as a burial ground for the inhabitants, was consecrated by Dr. John Ross, Bishop of Exeter, July 15th. 1780, and added to in 1805.±
A considerable demur arose against the use of the new ground on the part of the people, but the objection to it was removed in this way; the corporation resolved that the first member of that body, or of any one of their families, who might die, should be interred there; and it so happened, that Mrs. Cocke, wife of Mr. Josiah Cocke, a capital burgess, was the first person buried there, on the 23rd. of July, 1780.
The estimated quantity in statute measure, of all the land in the parish, amounts to 190 acres, occupied as follow;
Meadow land................................................................5 A. 1 R. 20 P
Gardens........................................................................6 A. 3 R. 15 P
The area of streets, houses and curtilages...................177 A. 3 R. 5 P
..................................................................................190 A. 0 R. 0 P
The annual value of property rated to the church rate in 1808, was £2562 10s. 0d., the rate being one shilling and three pence in the pound. In 1839, the value was £11247 10s. 0d., the rate two pence in the pound and the expenditure by the churchwardens for which the rate was required was only £86 0s. 0½ d.
* Hals. Gilbert's Parochial Hist. Vol. IV., p. 72.
† Whilst this is passing through the press, (April 1841) this aisle is being enlarged eastward, which will communicate with the north aisle of the church by two new arches, and accommodation will be thus furnished for about 140 persons. Probable cost £400, raised by subscriptions.
‡ Vide. - Minute book of the Churchwardens.
§ On this subject Hals has made the following observations, (Gilbert's Parochial History, Vol. IV., p. 72.) "And moreover as when it was a free chapel, the minister subsisted on the oblations and obventions of the Altar, so now (1730) comparatively, upon the piety and charity ot his hearers, by voluntary subscriptions; whence it may be presumed the rector must demean himself well and labour hard, in his vocation, at least he must walk with such upright and wary conduct, as he that went barefoot upon the edge of a sharp knife and did not hurt his feet, since he must converse with and have to do with men of divers principles and opinions in religion in this place."
± This additional part, was conveyed to the Rector of St. Mary for the time being, in trust, for the use named.
Twenty Second Annual Report of the Royal Institution of Cornwall, 1840, pp40-55.