Thomas Moule - The English Counties Delineated;

or, A Topographical Description of England, 1838.


CORNWALL.- Western Circuit.


THIS County forms the western extremity of the kingdom; the extreme point called "The Land's End," is three hundred and ninety-one feet above the level of the sea. The Lizard Point, its south-western extremity, is the spot whence all ships leaving the Channel date their departure from England; and for romantic scenery is rarely to be surpassed in the kingdom. Cornwall is bounded on the north by the Bristol Channel, on the east by Devonshire, and on the south by the English Channel. Its extent from the Land's End to the Devonshire border, is about 79 miles, its greatest breadth, from north to south, about 43 miles, and its reputed circumference is about 250 miles.
      The British inhabitants were called Cornubii, or the men of the promontory. Before the coming of the Romans, the Danmonii had usurped the dominion; under the Romans, this district was included in their first division of the island, and formed part of Britannia Prima. Cornwall abounds with memorials of its early inhabitants, consisting of large unwrought stones, placed erect, either singly or in circles, or with others laid across, and tumuli of stones or earth. Two of the most remarkable upright stones are at Bolliet, in the parish of St. Burien. On the downs, between Wadebridge and St. Columb, is a line of stones, generally called the Nine Maids. Circles of erect stones are very frequent in this country, where they are known by the name of Dawnsmen, or the Stone Dance. The monument called the Hurlers, originally consisted of three circles; and a singular monument at Bodinar, called the Crellas, is a double circle. It is most probable, that these circles of upright stones were applied to purposes of religion, although the opinion of those who consider them as peculiarly referable to Druidical rites, does not appear to be supported by the few notices which are to be met with on that subject, in the writings of the ancients. All the authors who were contemporary with the Druids, uniformly assert that their religious rites were confined to groves of oak, whilst these stone monuments chiefly abound in the most desert parts, where, in all probability neither oaks, nor any other trees, ever grew; and similar ones are found in almost every part of the world, although the Druids are supposed to have been chiefly confined to Britain and Gaul.
      There are also in Cornwall several circular enclosures with walls of stone or earth, on the inside of which are rows of seats, having been originally intended for the exhibition of sports of various kinds, they are known by the name of Rounds, or "Plân an guare," the place of sport. Two of the most remarkable of these works are the Rounds of St. Piran and St. Just.
      Barrows and cairns, tumuli of earth and stone, are found in several parts of Cornwall, most of which may be considered as the sepulchral monuments of the Britons, although, no doubt, some of them, especially those which have been found to contain neatly executed urns, may be referred to the Romans or Romanized Britons.
      Another kind of stone monument found in this county, is the Cromlech, which there is every reason to suppose sepulchral, consisting of a large flat stone, in an horizontal position, supported by several others fixed upright in the ground. It is commonly known by the name of the Quoit, or the Giant's Quoit. Lanyon Quoit is raised so high that a man on horseback may sit under it.
      Cornwall has produced few Roman antiquities, excepting coins, which have been discovered in great abundance in the western part of the county. Our knowledge of the Roman Stations in Cornwall, is as defective as that of the Roman Roads, of which fragments are met with in all parts of the county; but it is difficult to point out the situation of Roman settlements, and more so to determine their names.
      During the Anglo Saxon heptarchy, Cornwall was comprehended in the kingdom of Wessex. The castles of its ancient lords were at Tintagel, Launceston, Boscastle, St. Mawes, Pendennis, St. Michael's Mount, Trematon, Restormel, Tregony, St. Leven, Truro, Pengersick, Bossiney, Carnbre, Chûn, Fowey, Kernejack, Kimick, Pellin, Pentilly, and Boscajal. There were priories at Bodmin, St. Benets near Lanhivet, St. Germains, Launceston, St. Michael's Mount, and Tywardreth; and collegiate churches at St. Buriens, Constantine, and Glaseney.
      Cornwall contains 30 market towns, 203 parishes, 43,873 houses, 257,447 inhabitants. It returns fourteen members to parliament; two for Bodmin, one for Helleston, one for Launceston, one for Liskeard, two for Falmouth and Penryn, one for St. Ives, two for Truro, and four for the county; who at present are Sir William Molesworth, Bart., of Pencarrow, near Bodmin, William Lewis Salusbury Trelawney, Esq. of Harewood near Tavistock, members for the eastern division: and Edward William Wynne Pendarves, Esq. of Pendarves near Falmouth, and Sir Charles Lemon, Bart., of Carclew near Penryn, members for the western division.
      The high grounds of Cornwall, through which chiefly the great roads pass, present a dreary prospect, but there is a great deal of beautiful scenery near the southern coast, particularly at east and west Looe, Fowey, and Polperro, and on the banks of the Lynher, near Trematon Castle and Nottar Bridge. The Bay of Falmouth, and Mount's Bay, are exceeded in beauty by none in the kingdom. Many of the valleys are well wooded, particularly in the south eastern part of the county, and the neighbourhood of Lostwithiel and Bodmin. Cornwall has also its share of the beautiful scenery on the banks of the Tamar. Some of the most remarkable and interesting scenery in the county, is that which occurs along a line of bold and abrupt coast, bounded by the Atlantic Ocean and the British Channel, where amidst a great variety of striking objects may be enumerated the magnificent groups of granite rocks at the Land's End, Cape Cornwall, and Castle Treryn, the rocks at Tintagel, and the stupendous rock near Basset's Cove, with a lofty perforation, called Tabbin's Hole. The principal rivers of this county, are the Tamar, the Lynher, the Tidi, the Seaton, the Looe, the Fowey, the Fal, the Hel, the Heyl, and the Alan or Camel. The inland navigation is assisted by the St. Columb, Polbrook, and Tamar Canals. The produce of Cornwall is tin, copper, lead, most of the semi metals, China stone and clay, slate, Cornish diamonds or transparent quartz, pilchards and other fish. Mount Edgecumbe, in Devonshire, is the seat of Earl Mount Edgecumbe, the Lord Lieutenant of Cornwall.