Thomas Moule - The English Counties Delineated;

or, A Topographical Description of England, 1838.


Cornwall

 

6. Pyder Hundred

Is bounded on the north by the Bristol Channel, on the east by Trigg Hundred, on the south by Powder Hundred, and on the west by Penwith Hundred.

      ST. AGNES, on the Bristol Channel, 9 miles N.W. from Truro, contains 1012 houses and 5762 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Malow, Mithian, and Stenclose. The town and parish, comprising a great mining district, is also thickly strewed with cottages of the miners. At St. Agnes is a pilchard fishery, and a weekly market, on Thursday. It was the birth-place of John Opie, R.A., in 1761. St. Agnes Beacon, 664 feet above the level of the sea, is formed out of an ancient cairn or tumulus of stones; a summer house has been built near it, whence is a fine view of St. Ives, and an extensive sea prospect. It is a curacy to the vicarage of St. Perran, in Zabulo. The church was rebuilt in 1484, and was consecrated by Archbishop Courtenay. In the chancel are monuments of the family of Tonkin of Trevaunance. In a dingle, called Chapel Comb, was an ancient chapel, pulled down about the year 1780: near this spot is St. Agnes' Well, of which many miraculous stories are told, the water is of excellent quality, and is much esteemed.
      Trevaunance was the property and seat of Thomas Tonkin, who made large collections for a parochial history of Cornwall, he died in 1742, and the house was taken down a few years afterwards. An attempt was made by the Tonkins family to form a harbour at Trevaunance Porth, as early as 1632, and a jetty pier, of moor stone, was built about the year 1794, by a company. The harbour has also been enlarged, and rendered more commodious and safe for shipping. A considerable trade in coals, lime, slate, &c., is now carried on with Ireland and Wales. A stream of water, which rises in the great manor of Tywarnhaile, turns several stamping mills in Trevaunance Comb. Rosemundy, in this parish, is the seat of John James, Esq.

      ST. BREOCK, 7 miles N.W. from Bodmin, contains 214 houses and 1225 inhabitants, including the town of Wadebridge, and the hamlets of Great Burlawn and Trevanson. It is a rectory, value 41l. 10s. 10d. In the parish church are some gravestones of ecclesiastics, with crosses flory and inscriptions, nearly obliterated; there are monuments also of the Tredinick and Tregagle families, and in the chancel is a large monument of one of the family of Vyell of Hurston.
      Wadebridge of seventeen arches and nearly 320 feet in length over the river Camel, was built about the year 1485, the town is partly in this parish and partly in that of Egloshayle. The river Camel, which forms the harbour of Padstow, five miles lower down is navigable to Wadebridge. A weekly market is held at Wadebridge, on Friday, for butchers' meat and other commodities, and there are three annual fairs, on May-day, 22d June, and Michaelmas-day.
      Pawton, in this parish, belonged at a very early period to the Bishop of Exeter; it was one of the nine franchises in this county, and had extensive privileges. There are still some remains of the bishop's palace, to which a deer park was attached. Before the reformation, Pawton became the property of the prior of Bodmin, and after the suppression of religious houses, it continued in the hands of the crown, till 1606, in which year it was granted by King James I. to Sir Arthur Gorges; and after this, the manor passed, by successive sales, to several families, having had sixteen lords in about sixty years, being a greater mutability of property than could be instanced in all Cornwall, excepting in the descent of the manor of Fentongollan, near Tregothnan. There are some remains of Hurston, an ancient seat of the Carminows, which had a chapel attached to it, but Tredenick House, the seat of Lord Robartes has long been destroyed; the hall windows of this mansion are said to have been the largest of the kind in the kingdom.

      COLAN, 4 miles S.W. from St. Columb, contains 40 houses and 259 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Bezoam, Melancoose, and Mountjoy. The church, dedicated to St. Colan, is a vicarage, value 6l. 13s. 4d., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter. In the chancel is a monument of John Coswarth of Coswarth, in this parish, receiver-general of the county, who died in 1575. What remains of the ancient seat of the Coswarth family is occupied as a farm-house.

      ST. COLUMB, 11 miles W. from Bodmin, and 243 from London, contains 453 houses and 2493 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Glivian, Halewoon, Lanhinzey, Rosedinick, Rosevanion, Ruthvos, Tolskedy, Tregameer, Tregaswith, Tregatilian, Trekening, Trepadannon, Trevarron, Trevolvas, and Trugo. The town is built on an eminence, and has a market, which was granted by King Edward III., in the year 1333, to Sir John Arundell, to be held weekly on Thursday, together with an annual fair at the festival of St. Columba the Virgin. The principal market day is now Thursday, but there is a market also on Saturday in the summer. There are now two annual fairs, on Midlent Thursday for cattle and sheep, and on Thursday before 13th November, principally for sheep; the sessions for the Hundred of Pyder are held here. The church, dedicated to St. Columba, is a rectory, value 53l. 6s. 8d., in the patronage of Lord Clinton. The edifice is large and ancient, but has been injudiciously altered from its original design: in the chancel and other parts of the church are several monuments and gravestones of the families of Arundell, Hoblyn, Pendarves, and Vyvyan; also a monument of Sir Richard Bealinge, who died in 1710. The Arundell chapel was built by Renfrey Arundell, who died in 1310, for whom there was a monument, destroyed in the year 1676, when the church was much damaged by the blowing up of a barrel of gunpowder, belonging to the parish, which was kept in the rood loft. The windows of the church were of painted glass, bearing a representation of St.Columba. with her emblem of a dove, but they were entirely destroyed. Sir John Arundell, in the reign of Henry VI., founded a chantry in Arundell chapel, the priests of which had their residence adjoining to the churchyard; the College house was burnt down by accident in the year 1701, and there are now no remains of buildings on its site. The rectory house was built in the fifteenth century by John Arundell, dean of Exeter, who was bishop of Lichfield in 1496, and bishop of Exeter, in 1501: it is situated in a steep but fertile valley on the southern side of the church, surrounded by a spacious lawn, and the acclivities of the hill, which rises towards the town, have been judiciously planted. A stream runs through the valley, which contributes to the freshness and beauty as well as to the calm and undisturbed retirement of the scene. The building is quadrangular, with a gatehouse and moat, and it is necessary to cross a bridge to reach the porch, thus in its plan emulating the castellated style of building adopted by the neighbouring gentry. The manor of St. Columb, which had belonged to the priory of Bodmin, and was afterwards in the possession of the Arundell family, was purchased in 1806 by Thomas Rawlings, Esq., of Padstow. Trewan, in this parish, the seat of Richard Vyvyan, Esq., stands on the brow of a hill, commanding a fine view of the town of St. Columb. It was erected in the year 1632, and the drawing room is enriched with sculpture, representing the principal events of the Book of Genesis: in the rooms are some good portraits. Nanswhyden House, the seat of the Hoblyn family, was nearly destroyed by fire in 1803. It was erected from designs by Potter, for Richard Hoblyn, Esq., who died in 1756; this gentleman formed a valuable library, which was sold by Baker and Leigh, in London, in March, 1778, the sale lasted twenty-five days.
      Castle an Dinas, a remarkable earthwork, is in this parish, on the summit of a high hill, about two miles eastward from the town. It is nearly circular, consisting of a double vallum, the inner area of which is 1700 feet in diameter, and has only one entrance. Within this area, are two tumuli, one of them surrounded by a slight ditch, and at the distance of about a mile to the westward is a cromlech.

      ST. COLUMB MINOR, on the Bristol Channel, 5 miles W. from St. Columb, and 12 miles N. from Truro, contains 260 houses and 1697 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Towan or New Quay and Porth. It is a rectory, value 7l., in the patronage of the crown. Rialton, in this parish, which had been given by one of the earls of Cornwall to the priory of Bodmin, was granted by Queen Elizabeth, together with the manor of Reterth, and the bailiffry of the Hundred of Pyder, to Richard Senhouse: it was afterwards in the possession of the Munday family, who held the estate under the crown till the year 1663, when it was granted to Sir Francis Godolphin, K.B.; his son Sidney was created, in 1684, Lord Godolphin of Rialton; and on the accession of King James II., was appointed lord-chamberlain to the queen. In 1704, he was created a knight of the garter, and in 1706, farther advanced in the peerage as Earl of Godolphin and Viscount Rialton. The old mansion is now a farm house, and the estate is vested in the Duke of Leeds, who inherits all the Cornish estates which belonged to the Godolphin family. There is an annual fair at Rialton, on the 9th June, on a green, which, from the Munday family, bears the name of Munday Green. At New Quay or Towan, is a considerable pilchard fishery, and Porth is a sea-port, chiefly for the importation of coals from South Wales.

      CRANTOCK, on the Bristol Channel, 8 miles W. from St. Columb, and 10 miles N. from Truro, contains 68 houses and 389 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Trevelveth and Trevimber. The church, dedicated to St. Karentoc, is a curacy. The south aisle was built by one of the Triago family, in the reign of Edward IV. The church was formerly collegiate, and consisted of a dean and nine prebendaries, afterwards reduced to four. It was given by the Earl of Mortaign to the priory of Montacute, who, in the year 1236 granted it to the church of Exeter. The college was dissolved in 1534. In this parish is the Gonell, a small harbour.

      CUBERT, 8 miles N. from Truro, contains 54 houses and 322 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Trescaw and Treveal. The church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is a vicarage, value 8l. 6s. 8d. Ellenglaze or Hellanclase, in this parish, is the seat of Joseph Hosken, Esq., it is a modern built house.

      ST. ENODER, 5 miles S. from St. Columb, and 10 miles N. from Truro, contains 142 houses and 833 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Tradon, Penhale, and Summer Coat. Part of the borough of Michell is also in this parish. It is a vicarage, value 26l. 13s. 4d., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter. The parish church, which is dedicated to St. Athenodorus, was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. There are three great fairs for horses, cattle, and sheep, held at Summer Court, on the road from Bodmin to Truro. One of these, held on 28th July, is of modern date, the others are ancient chartered fairs, and belonged to the Veres, Earls of Oxford; one of them attached to the earl's manor of Polsew, in the parish of St. Erme, was formerly held at Long Chepyng on Holyrood-day; the other called Penhale fair, held on the 25th September, has been transferred from that village to Summer Court.
      Michell, or Modeshole, an ancient borough, improperly called St. Michael, 7 miles north from Truro, is partly in this parish, and partly in that of Newlyn. The market has been long disused, but there is an annual fair held on 15th October, chiefly for sheep, of which 4000 head are generally offered for sale. This borough is governed by a portreve, annually elected at the court leet of the lord of the manor; which portreve, by prescription, must be one of five chief tenants or mesne lords. There was formerly a chapel at Michell, adjoining the chapel field, dedicated to St. Francis, but it has long ago been demolished, and a dwelling house built on the site.

      ST. ERVAN, 5 miles N. from St. Columb, and 4½ miles S. from Padstow, contains 77 houses and 422 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Penrose and Rumford. It is a rectory, value 18l. 6s. 8d. In the parish church are monuments of the families of Keate and Pomeroy. Trembleth, in this parish, was the seat of the Arundells, before their match with the heiress of Lanherne.

      ST. EVAL, on the Bristol Channel, 4 miles N. from St. Columb, and 5 miles S. from Padstow, contains 52 houses and 323 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Treburthick and Downhill. It is a vicarage, value 6l. 13s. 4d., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter. The tower of the parish church having fallen down, it was rebuilt from the foundation, and completed in 1727. The expense was defrayed by collections in the county, aided by a contribution from the Bristol merchants, to whose vessels, navigating the North Sea, it is from its loftiness a conspicuous sea mark. In the church are monuments of the family of Trevelick, from the year 1693 to 1731.

      ST. ISSEY, on the river Camel, 2½ miles S. from Padstow, and 5 miles N. from St. Columb, contains 112 houses and 660 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Tredinnick, Trenance, and Trevance. The church called, in ancient records, Eglos Crock, is a vicarage, value 9l., in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Exeter. At Halwyn or Old Town, in this parish, was a seat of the Champernoune family, of which there are still some remains; and a chapel, in which some of the family are buried.

      LANHYDROCK, on the banks of the river Fowey, 2½ miles S. from Bodmin, and 3 miles N. from Lostwithiel, contains 39 houses and 251 inhabitants, including the hamlet of Trebyan, and part of Resprin, where is a bridge over the Fowey. The church, dedicated to St. Hydrock, is a curacy without endowment, but the prebend of Heredum Marney, value 5l., is usually given to the curate. In the chancel is a monument of Lady Essex Speccot, daughter of John Earl of Radnor, who died in 1689, and a tablet for George and Jane Carminow, 1609, on which are verses in Latin and English, the latter beginning with

The care of mine I owe
To Carminow.

being a play on the family name. Lanhydrock House, their ancient seat, afterwards of the Robartes family, descended to the Hon. Mrs. Agar. It is a quadrangular mansion erected by Lord Robartes, in the architectural style prevalent in the early part of the seventeenth century. The gatehouse, begun before the civil wars, was not completed till several years afterwards, as appears by the several dates of 1636, 1642, and 1658, the great avenue was planted in 1648. The gallery, 116 feet in length, is ornamented with a variety of scripture subjects on the ceiling and cornices, and contains a portrait of the first earl of Radnor, and other family pictures.

      LANIVET, 2½ miles S.W. from Bodmin, contains 131 houses and 803 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Bodwanick, Bokiddick, Lamorick, St. Inganger, Trebell, Tregullon, Tremoore, and Woodly, part of St. Lawrance is also in this parish. It is a rectory, value 24l. In the chancel are monuments of the Courtenays of Tremere. In the churchyard are two ancient stone crosses. About a quarter of a mile from the church are considerable remains of St. Benet's, a monastery of the Benedictine order, said to have been subordinate to Mount Cassine, in Italy, or according to others, Clare Val in Burgundy. There are certain lands in Lanivet, Padstow, and other parishes, most of which belonged to the monastery of St. Benet, vested in twelve feoffees for the use of the poor, in an ancient almshouse, and a school under the same roof, the master of which is allowed an habitation. Credys, in Padstow, was a cell to St. Benet's, and is now vested in the twelve men of Lanivet, trustees of the parish lands. At St. Congar, in this parish, said to have been in ancient times the residence of a hermit, was a chapel and well, dedicated to that saint.

      MAWGAN, 3 miles N.W. from St. Columb, contains 107 houses and 580 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Carloggas, Tregurrian, and Trevarrian. It is a rectory, value 26l.13s. 4d. In the church is a beautiful choir screen, extending across the nave and the south aisle. It is enriched with carved scrolls, vine branches, animals of various kinds, and curious tracery: this was the gift of one of the Arundell family, whose arms appear upon it. In the chancel are several monuments, about the reign of Elizabeth, for the Arundell family. In the churchyard is a cross, on the eastern side of which is a niche, containing a crucifixion, sculptured in high relief. On the western side of the cross is a legendary subject, consisting of figures of a king and queen, &c.
      Lanherne House, long the seat of the elder branch of the Arundells, was fitted up by a late Lord Arundell, as an ayslum for a convent of Carmelite nuns from Antwerp, who still reside here. The Arundells of Lanherne, from their ample possessions, were called the Great Arundells, and were ancestors of the Arundells of Talvern, of St. Columb, and of Wardour Castle. Sir John Arundell, the last of the Lanherne family, in 1701, settled his estates on his grandson Richard Billinge, Esq., who took the name of Arundell. The only daughter and heiress of this Richard, by her marriage with Henry Lord Arundell of Wardour, in 1739, united the two branches which had been separated above two hundred years.
      Carnanton House, in this parish, is the seat of James Williams, Esq. There was in ancient times a castle at Carnanton, which is one of the franchises of Cornwall, called Castle Fust, but it was in ruins in the reign of Edward IV. In the castle field, about a quarter of a mile from the church, are the remains of a circular entrenchment.

      ST. MERRYN, 2½ miles S.W. from Padstow, and 7 miles N. from St. Columb, contains 93 houses and 537 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Polmarth, Towan, and Trevear. It is a vicarage, value 15l. 6s. 8d., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter: the font is very curious and ancient. Thomas Tregewe of Harlyn, in 1507, gave, amongst other benefactions, to the parish, a spot of ground near the churchyard, to the youths of St. Merryn, for the celebration of Cornish sports. The festival of St. Constantine, on the 9th March, was annually kept, till very lately, by a hurling match, on which occasion the owner of Harlyn had from time immemorial supplied a silver ball. A shepherd's family, of the name of Edwards, held a cottage for many generations, under the lord of the manor of Harlyn, by the annual render of a Cornish pie, made of limpets, raisins, and sweet herbs, at the feast of St. Constantine. Harlyn House is the seat of Henry Peter, Esq., and Porthcothan of Samuel Peter, Esq.
      There is a small pier under Catacleuse Cliffs, on the Bristol Channel, which was built in 1794, for the reception of coasting vessels, and of the seam boats belonging to a pilchard fishery carried on in Portlease Bay.

      NEWLYN, 7 miles S.W. from St. Columb, and 8 miles N. from Truro, contains 191 houses and 1045 inhabitants, including part of the borough of Michel. It is a vicarage, value 16l. 13s. 4d., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter. In the chancel is a monument of Margaret, the lady of John Lord Arundell, of Trerice, who died in 1691. Trerice, in this parish, was at an early period the seat of a family of that name, whose heiress, about the period of the reign of Edward III., brought it to a branch of the Arundell family, descended from the Arundells of Hempston in Devonshire. Sir Richard Arundell was, in 1664, created Lord Arundell of Trerice. His grandson, the fourth and last Lord Arundell, of this family, married a sister of Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, and on his death, in 1773, the estates, agreeably to a settlement, descended to her nephew, William Wentworth, of Hembury, in Dorsetshire, with remainder to Sir Thomas Acland, Bart., and are now the property of Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, Bart. The mansion, built in 1572, is occasionally visited by its owner. Tresilian is the seat of — Bennet, Esq.

      PADSTOW, or Petrockstow, at the mouth of the river Camel, on the northern coast, 14 miles W. from Bodmin, and 243 miles from London, contains 324 houses and 1700 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Crugmeer, Treviscar, and Trevone. The town has a market, on Saturday, by prescription; and there are two annual fairs, on the 18th April, and 21st September, well supplied with cattle, cloth, hats, &c. At Padstow, the river Camel is a mile wide, but the navigation is much impeded by sands; the mouth of the harbour is about two miles below the town. Its principal import trade is for iron chiefly from Cardiff, coals from Wales, timber from Norway, and groceries and bale goods from Bristol. Considerable quantities of corn are exported; other exports are malt and block tin, besides slate from the Dunbar quarries to various ports in the channel. Stepper and Pentire Points are the boundaries of the entrance to the harbour, and are distant one mile; off Pentire Point, is the Newland Rock, high and steep. The harbour is safe for ships of any burden, and is bounded on the west by a steep cliff, and on the east by the Dunbar sand, which is dangerous. It is a most excellent outlet for ships bound to the northward or eastward. Eastward, and near the shore, is a rock, called the Mole, beyond which is the Cove of Portquin, a mile and a half westward of Port Isaac.
      The church, dedicated to St. Petroc, is a vicarage, value 11l. 3s. 4d. In the chancel are monuments of the Prideaux family, of Place House, who held the manor of Padstow, under the priors of Bodmin, some time before the reformation. The monument of Sir Nicholas Prideaux, who died in 1627, commemorates also Sir William Morice, who married a daughter of Humphrey Prideaux. He died at Werrington, in 1676, æt. 75.
      Place House, the seat of the Rev. Charles Prideaux Brune, was built about the year 1600; it overlooks the town and harbour. On the southern side of the town is Saunders' Hill, a mansion erected by Thomas Rawlings, Esq., about 1803, from designs by Richards; on the front is an Ionic portico, opening upon a vestibule and tribune. The library contains a collection of mineralogical specimens, and some family portraits by Opie. The plantations around Saunders' Hill are beautifully diversified by the natural inequalities of the ground. The spot is enclosed by a bold and irregular contour of hills, whence the arm of the sea, which forms the harbour of Padstow, appears a spacious lake, and the water, from the bright colour of its sandy bed, preserves its cerulean hue. In an opposite direction, is a richly cultivated valley, in which the town is situated. Mr. Rawlings, of Saunders' Hill, died in 1820; his brother is the present vicar of Padstow.

      PERRAN ZABULOE, or St. Piran in the Sands, on the Bristol Channel, 5 miles N. from Truro, contains 329 houses and 1702 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Callestock, Lambourne, Lundrawna, or Hendravenna, Millingy, Penwartha, and Rose. The western part of this parish is very populous, being inhabited by miners, who live in detached cottages, thickly scattered over the barren commons. "This parish," as Carew, in his survey of Cornwall, observes, "but too well brooketh its name, in sabulo, for the light sand carried up by the north wind, from the sea shore, daily continueth covering and marring the land adjoinant, so as the distress of this deluge drove the inhabitants to remove their church: howbeit, where it meeteth with any crossing brook, the same restraineth and barreth his farther encroaching that way." The church, dedicated to St. Piran, is a vicarage, value 24l., in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Exeter. It was rebuilt in the year 1805. This parish is said to have been the residence and burial place of St. Piran, the patron of the tinners, and in the old church was the shrine in which St. Piran's relics were preserved. There was a great resort of pilgrims to make oblations at this shrine, in the reign of Henry VI. St. Piran's Well at Caer or Carn Kief, near Lambourne, is enclosed by an ancient stone building, and on the downs, about a mile and a half from Lambourne, is St. Piran's Round, an ancient amphitheatre; there are several other ancient earth-works in this parish. A fair is held some years at Millingy and others at Penhallow, in this parish, on Easter Tuesday. At Perran Porth, where a considerable stream, which runs through Millingy, falls into the sea, is a fine sandy beach, frequented as a bathing place. Chiverton, is the seat of John Thomas, Esq., the house was built in 1718, by John Andrew, Esq., of Trevallance, and embellished with extensive plantations. At Penhale is a valuable and extensive rabbit warren, of which there are two or three adjoining on the sands, containing several hundred acres of land.

      LITTLE PETHERICK, anciently Nassington, on a branch of the river Camel, 2 miles S. from Padstow, contains 34 houses and 217 inhabitants, including the hamlet of Tregonnon. It is a rectory, value 6l. 6s. 8d.

      ST. WENN, 4 miles N.E. from St. Columb, and 8 miles W. from Bodmin, contains 92 houses and 589 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Rosemannon and Tregonetha. It is a vicarage, value 16l. 6s. 8d. The manor of Borlase, in this parish, was the ancient seat of the family of that name. The last heir male of the elder branch sold the estate in 1559. At Tregortha, William Hals, wrote the parochial history of this county, and resided in the latter part of his life. At Tregonetha, are two annual cattle fairs, on 25th April and 1st August.

      WITHIEL, on a branch of the river Camel, 5 miles W. from Bodmin, and 6 miles N.E. from St. Columb, contains 53 houses and 339 inhabitants including the hamlets of Retire, Tregawen, and Withiel Goose. The church, dedicated to St. Uvell, is a rectory, value 10l. In a window of the ancient parsonage house are the arms of Thomas Vyvyan, prior of Bodmin. Bryn, in this parish, was formerly a seat of the Beville and Grenville families. The brave Sir Beville Grenville was born here in 1595.