Thomas Moule - The English Counties Delineated;
or, A Topographical Description of England, 1838.
Cornwall
4. Penwith Hundred
At the western extremity of the county, is bounded on the north and west by the sea, on the east by Pyder Hundred, and on the south partly by the sea, and partly by Kerrier Hundred.
BURIAN, 6 miles S.W. from Penzance, and about 2 miles from the western extremity of the island, contains 264 houses and 1495 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Alsa, Bolleit, Boscawen Oon, Boscawen Rose, Penberth Cove, Rosemoddris, Selena, Treeve, Tregadgwith, Tregurno, Trelew, Trevorgans, and Trevorrian. There was formerly a weekly market, on Saturday, at Burian, which was granted to the dean, by King Edward I., together with two annual fairs, at the festival of St. Burian, and at that of St. Martin. The church, dedicated to St. Burian, is a rectory, value 48l. 12s. 1d., in the patronage of the crown. It stands on the highest ground in this part of the county, 467 feet above the level of the sea. There are monuments in the chancel of Jane, wife of Geoffry de Bolleit, the inscription in Lombardic characters; and of the family of Levelis, of Trewoof, the last of which died in 1671. In the churchyard is a small cross.
King Athelstan is said to have founded and endowed a collegiate church here in honor of St. Burian, in consequence of a vow made to that saint before he went on an expedition to the Scilly Islands. The establishment consisted of a dean and three prebendaries, as it continued till the reformation. The deanery of the king's free chapel of St. Burian, is a royal peculiar, still held immediately under the crown, and is tenable with any other preferment; the dean exercises an independent jurisdiction in all ecclesiastical matters within the parish, and its dependencies of St. Levan and Sennen. The three prebends belonging to the church, are prebenda Parva, prebenda de Respermel, and prebenda de Tirthney; the first is in the gift of the bishop of Exeter, but the two others are annexed to the deanery. The dean of St. Burian, as rector of the parish, is entitled to all the tithes, and holds a visitation court, at which churchwardens are sworn, wills proved, &c. The appeal from this court is directly to the king in council.
Trewoof, or Trou, the ancient seat of the family of Levelis, is beautifully situated on the side of a woody hill, overlooking a romantic valley, terminated by Lamorna Cove. On this estate is a treple entrenchment, in which is a subterraneous passage, where a party of royalists were concealed during the civil war.
Boscawen Rose, the original seat of the family of Boscawen, is still the property of the Earl of Falmouth, although his principal residence is now at Tregothnan. On the downs is a circle of stones, called Boscawen Oon. At Treveddron, near the sea side, are the remains of a chapel, dedicated to St. Loy, and there are ruins of another at Vellanserga.
CAMBORNE, 8 miles N. from Helston, and 4 miles W. from Redruth, contains 1158 houses and 6219 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Berippa, Penpons, Trewithan, and Tucking Mill, besides which, the whole parish is scattered over with cottages belonging to the miners. A weekly market for butchers' meat and other provisions was established at Camborne in 1802, when a market house was built at the expense of Lord de Dunstanville. There are also four annual fairs for cattle on 7th March, Whit Tuesday, 29th June, and second Tuesday in November: the sessions for the eastern division of the hundred are held here. The church, dedicated to St. Martin, is a rectory, value 39l. 16s. 10d., in the patronage of Lord de Dunstanville; an ancient font has been removed to the grounds at Tehiddy. In the chancel are several monuments of the family of Pendarves: the altar screen of marble, was erected in 1761, at the expense of Samuel Percival, Esq. of Tresbothan. His wife, Grace, the sister of Sir William Pendarves, founded and endowed a school for twelve boys and eight girls. Dolcoath copper mine, in this parish, is one of the most productive of the Camborne mines, which are situated on the northern declivity of a ridge of granite hills, that extends from Redruth towards the western extremity of the county. These mines are distinguished by the names of Wheal Gons, Stay Park, Dolcoath, Cook's Kitchen, and Tin Croft: some of them having been wrought for many years, are of great depth, and consequently worked at great expense. Dolcoath is about three miles westward from Carn Brê, and is the most complicated in its machinery and varied combinations of any in the county. The workings, or excavated passages, extend a mile in length, and are approached by numerous shafts from the surface. Several steam engines are kept at work to raise the ore, water, &c., and 1600 persons are employed at this mine, which yields about 70 tons of copper, and a small quantity of tin, in a month. Within one month, the proprietors once realized a profit of 7040l., the expenses for the same period of time are about 4500l. The whole is under the management of a purser, a principal captain, eight inferior captains, and an engineer.
CROWAN, 5 miles N. from Helston, and the same distance S. from Camborne, contains 698 houses and 3973 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Cargenwen, Drym, Praze an beoble, Trethannas, and Trevoole. The church, dedicated to St. Crowan, is a vicarage, value 11l. 9s. 2d., in the patronage of Sir John Saint Aubyn, Bart.: in the chancel are several monuments of the family of Saint Aubyn, who endowed a school in the parish about the year 1730. Clowance, the seat of Sir John Saint Aubyn, Bart., stands in an extensive park, surrounded by a high wall: the plantations are laid out with judgment. The house contains a collection of family portraits by Lely, &c. The manors of Helligan and Clowance, belonged anciently to the family of Helligan, who had their residence at the former place. The heiress of Helligan married into the family of Kemyell; and in the reign of Richard II., Geoffry Saint Aubyn acquired the whole estate by his marriage with Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Piers Kemyell. Their descendant, Sir John Saint Aubyn, of Clowance, was created a baronet, 11th December, 1671. Tregeare, in this parish, was, for many generations, the seat of a family of that name, which became extinct in the year 1732.
ST. ERTH, on the river Hayle, 7 miles N.E. from Penzance, and 5 miles S.E. from St. Ives, contains 273 houses and 1604 inhabitants. Leland says that St. Erth bridge was built two hundred years before his time, and that good tall ships came up here before the haven was barred up with sands. The river Heyle, or Hayle, is formed by the junction of four brooks, at Relubbas, three miles above the bridge of St. Erth, where the land of this county is at its narrowest dimension, the distance being only three miles from the full sea mark of the river Hayle on the north, to the full sea mark at Marazion on the south. The parish church is a vicarage, value 14l. 1s., in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Exeter. The southern aisle of the church is called Trewinnard's aisle. Trewinnard was the seat of a family of that name, two of whom were successively members of parliament for the county, in the reign of Edward III.; another, William Trewinnard, was one of the members for Helston in the reign of Henry VIII. The estate and mansion was latterly purchased by Thomas Hawkins, Esq., ancestor of Sir Christopher Hawkins, Bart. Tredrea is the seat of Davies Gilbert, Esq. F.R.S., formerly member of parliament for Bodmin; and Trelessick is the property of Francis Hearle Rodd, Esq., to whom it descended through the Hearle and Paynter families. A little above the vicarage house of St. Erth is Carhan-gives, a circular double entrenchment.
GULVAL, one mile N.E. from Penzance, contains 257 houses and 1353 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Chyendower, Trevarrack, and Trezela. In this parish is a spring called Gulfwell, "the Hebrew brook," much resorted to by the credulous, who wish to make enquiries after absent friends, who suppose that if the person enquired after is in health, the water bubbles; if sick, it becomes discoloured; and if dead, it remains in its natural state. The church, dedicated to St. Gulwall, is a vicarage, value 6l. 11s., in the patronage of the crown: in the chancel are monuments of the Harris family, amongst which, is that of Arthur Harris, of Heyne, in Devon, governor of St. Michael's Mount, who died in 1628.
The manor of Lanisley, which was formerly the name of the parish, belonged at an early period to the family of De Als. In 1620, it was the property of Sir Nicholas Hals, ancestor of William Hals, author of a parochial history of this county, who died in 1739; half this work is occupied by legends of saints, to whom the churches in Cornwall are dedicated. Lanisley was afterwards the property of the Onslow family. Kenegie, the seat of a branch of the Harris family, was bequeathed, in 1775, to William Arundell, of Menadarva, who took the name of Harris. The terrace commands a fine view of Mount's Bay.
GWINEAR, 7 miles N.W. from Helston, and the same distance W. from Redruth, contains 423 houses and 2383 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Cattebidrew, Drannock, Fraddam, Penhal, Tregortha, and Wall. The church, dedicated to St. Wymer, or St. Winnear, is a vicarage, value 12l., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter; it was endowed by Bishop Stapledon in 1319, and the great tithes of the parish are vested in the rector and fellows of Exeter College, Oxford.
GWITHIAN, on the Bristol Channel, 7 miles W. from Redruth, contains 86 houses and 412 inhabitants, including the hamlet of Trevernon. It is a rectory, united with Phillack. A considerable portion of these parishes is covered with sand hills. Trevernon Round, is an extensive earth work, having a moat and rampart.
ILLOGAN, 10 miles W. from Truro, and 2 miles N.W. from Redruth, contains 912 houses and 5170 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Pool and Portreath. It is a rectory, value 22l. 7s. 6d., in the patronage of Lord de Dunstanville. In the parish church are several monuments of the family of Basset.
At Portreath, or Bassets Cove, on the Bristol Channel, is a haven for the importation of coals, timber, and lime; and the exportation of granite, and of great quantities of copper ore to the works in Wales. A pier was erected in 1760, and a road to the Gwennap mines has been formed by a company, who are lessees under Lord de Dunstanville.
Tehidy Park, the seat of Lord de Dunstanville and Basset, is two miles westward from Illogan. The manor belonged at a very early period to a branch of the baronial family of Dunstanville, from whom it passed by an heiress to the Bassets of Ipsden, in Oxfordshire, descended from Ralph Basset, Chief Justiciary of England, in the reign of Henry I. Francis Basset, the representative of this ancient family, was created a baronet in 1779, Lord de Dunstanville of Tehidy in 1796, and Lord Basset of Stratton in 1797, with remainder to his only daughter, Frances, and her heirs male. The manor of Tehidy, is of extensive jurisdiction, enjoys great privileges, and is rich in mines. The mansion was built in 1734 by John Pendarves Basset, Esq.; the eastern front is of free stone, raised on Illogan Down. Amongst the family portraits at this seat, are a whole length of Sir Francis Basset, vice admiral of Cornwall, and governor of St. Michael's Mount, by Vandyck; Lady Masters, æt. 74, sister of Sir Francis Basset, Esq., by Kneller; Sir John Saint Aubyn and Francis Basset, Esq., by Hudson; Lord de Dunstanville and his lady, Frances Susanna, daughter and coheiress of John Hippisley Coxe, Esq., of Stone Easton, Somersetshire, by Gainsborough; Francis Basset, Esq., set. 18, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; Sir John Saint Aubyn, Bart., by Sir Joshua Reynolds; and John Prideaux Basset, Esq., by Ramsey. There is also a portrait of General Massey, by Vandyck, and of Chief Justice Keybridge and his lady, by Lely.
On the summit of Cam Brê, a steep hill in this parish, 679 feet above the level of the sea, are the remains of a castle; it is a small irregular building about 60 feet by 10 feet in dimension, but only part is ancient.
ST. IVES, on the shore of the British Channel, 8 miles N.E. from Penzance, 13 miles N.W. from Helston, and 277 from London, contains 725 houses and 3526 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Aire, Batavellan, Bovallan, Carrackdues, Corva, Hellesvean, Hellesveor, Penbeagle, Treloyhan, Trenwith, and Trowan. This seaport town, called in ancient records Porthia, is said to have derived its name from St. Hya, who was here buried. It is situated near the north-western angle of a very fine bay, five leagues eastward of Cape Cornwall, and has a commodious pier, erected under the direction of Smeaton, in 1770. The principal export, excepting pilchards and herrings, is copper ore; the imports are coals, salt, timber, iron, leather, groceries, &c. The trade is chiefly carried on at Hayle, three miles from the town, which is within the port of St. Ives. There are weekly markets on Wednesday and Saturday, and four annual fairs, 10th May, 20th July, 26th September, and 3d December, but latterly there has been only one fair, on the last Saturday in November, and that chiefly for shoes and sweetmeats. The corporation of the borough consists of a mayor, recorder, town clerk, ten aldermen, and twelve common councilmen. Four of these are justices of the peace, and hold a sessions. The seal of the borough bears a shield, charged with an ivy branch, overspreading the whole field with the inscription, "Sigillum. Burgi. S. Ives. in. Com. Cornub. 1690." It returns one member to parliament, who at present is James Halse, Esq. Sir Francis Basset, of Tehidy, who was member of parliament for St. Ives, gave the corporation a drinking cup on which is this stanza,
ST. JUST, on the coast, 5 miles N. from the Land's End, 7 miles W. from Penzance, and 11 miles S.W. from St. Ives, contains 650 houses and 3666 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Botallack, Bosavern, Brea, Kelinack, Pendeen, and Trewelland, It is a vicarage, value 11l. 11s., in the patronage of the crown, Pendeen, on the sea coast, two miles northward from the village, was the birth-place of Dr. Borlase, the Cornish historian. In this parish are the remains of Chapel Carn Brê, built on a singularly large cairn, and on the plain above, the group of rocks; at Cape Cornwall are the remains of Parken Chapel. At Botallack is a celebrated tin and copper mine, extending to a considerable distance under the sea; near it is Carnidjack Castle. The road from St. Just to St. Ives passes near numerous shafts of mines: the moor stone, or granite, also lies dispersed in detached blocks, many of them of immense size; scarcely a shrub appears to diversify the prospect, and the only living beings that inhabit the mountainous parts are goats, that browse on the scanty herbage.
LELANT, on the river Hayle, 3 miles S.E. from St. Ives, contains 241 houses and 1271 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Brunian, Trecoben, Tredreath or lower Lelant, Trembetha, and Trink. Here is an annual cattle fair on the 15th August. The river Hayle takes a course directly north from St. Erth, and near its mouth is joined by Phillack creek, from the east, which makes a branch of this harbour for ships of 100 tons burden. Small ships only come up to Lelant on account of the sands which have formed a bar, causing it to be only a half tide harbour. Many improvements have been made, by creating a backwater at the expense of the Hayle Copper Company, who are proprietors of the land contiguous to Phillack creek. The church of St. Uny, said to have been the burial place of that saint, is a vicarage, value 22l. 11s. 10d., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter. It was granted to the monastery of Tywardreth, by Robert de Cardinham, in the reign of Richard I., but afterwards was appropriated to the college of Crediton, in Devonshire. In the church are monuments of the family of Pawley, of Gunwin, bearing date 1625, 1721, &c.
Trevethow is a seat of William Praed, Esq., who chiefly resides at Tyringham, in Buckinghamshire, but is the owner of large estates in this neighbourhood.
ST. LEVAN, on the sea coast, about 3 miles S.E. from the Land's End, and 8 miles S.W. from Penzance, contains 88 houses and 490 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Bosistow, Rafton, Trebean, Trengothal, and Treryn or Treen. It is a curacy to St. Burian. On the summit of a lofty rock of granite, in this parish, called Treryn Castle, is a Logan, or rocking stone, which weighs about 60 tons. In 1824, this celebrated stone was overturned by a lieutenant of the navy and a party of his men, belonging to a revenue cutter, but was afterwards replaced by the same men. In the parish is St. Levan's Well, with an oratory attached, as well as the sites of Port Chapel and Chapel Curnow.
LUDGVAN, 3 miles N. from Penzance, contains 315 houses and 1839 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Bowgyhere, Carvossen Downs, Crowliss, Ludgvan Lees, and Tornewidden. The church, dedicated to St. Paul, is a rectory, value 301. Us., in the presentation of the coheirs of the Duke of Bolton, as lord of the manor of Ludgvan Lees. In the chancel is a monument of Dr. Borlase, author of "The natural history and antiquities of Cornwall," who was for fifty-two years rector of the parish. He died 31st August, 1772, ætat. 76. Treassowe is the seat of John Rogers, Esq., of Penrose, near Helston.
About half a mile from the village of Ludgvan, crossing the road to Marazion, which is three miles distant, is a vallum, thrown up in the civil war by the parliamentary forces, when they beseiged St. Michael's Mount.
MADRON, or Madern, 2 miles N. from Penzance, contains 337 houses and 2011 inhabitants, including the hamlet of Lanyon, but exclusive of the town of Penzance, which is a chapelry of this parish. Madron is a vicarage, value 11l. 5s. 10d., in the patronage of Walter Borlase, Esq. In the parish church are monuments for the families of Borlase, Fleming, Harris, and Nicholls. The great tithes of this parish were formerly appropriated to the Knights Hospitallers, to whom the church was given by Henry de Pomeroy: they are now vested in William John Godolphin Nicholls, Esq., of Trereife, Trereife, by inheritance from the Fleming family of Landithy. George Daniel, about the year 1704, founded and endowed a school at Madron, with a house for a master.
Castle Horneck, situated on a mount near Penzance, and built on the site of an ancient castle, was, for many generations, a seat of the family of Levelis, but latterly of the Borlase family. Rose Hill, the seat of Richard Oxnam, Esq., Larrigon Cottage, of Thomas Pascoe, Esq., and Poltaire, a house built by Richard Hickens, Esq., are all in this parish. St. Madern's well, a spring of pure water, was of great repute formerly for its wonderful effect in the cure of diseases. Its virtue is recorded in " The Mystery of Godliness," one of the works of the learned Bishop Hall.
MARAZION, on the coast of Mount's Bay, 4 miles E. from Penzance, and 283 miles from London, contains 230 houses and 1253 inhabitants. The appellation of Market Jew, not entirely disused, has induced a belief that this town had a market in very remote times, which was attended by foreign Jews, who came to deal in tin. It has also been called in various charters by the names of Merdresein, Marghas-Bigan, and Marchadyon. Leland calls it Merdresin. Here is a market, which has from time immemorial been held on a Saturday, and is well supplied with butchers' meat, fish, vegetables, and poultry; shoes are also sold in considerable quantities. Two annual fairs are held on Midlent Monday and Michaelmas day, and there are two others held under Queen Elizabeth's charter, on St. Barnabas and St. Andrew's days, but are not considerable. The two former, which are for cattle, clothes, &c., are held near the ancient grange of the priory, in the village of Trevennor. The corporation of Marazion, consists of a mayor, eight burgesses, and twelve capital inhabitants, and the town, in former times, is stated to have been a place of consequence. It is chiefly built at the bottom of a hill, which shelters it from the north, and few towns in England surpass it for mildness of climate and agreeable prospects. The pier was built in the 15th century. A chapel here is dedicated to St. Ervat, but the town is within the parish of St. Hilary, the church of which is two miles eastward from Marazion.
Adjoining the parish of St. Hilary, opposite to the town of Marazion, and connected with it by a narrow causeway of pebbles, passable at low water, is St. Michael's Mount, a very singular pyramidical mass of rocks, which gives name to the adjoining inlet of the sea, Mount's Bay. The height of the mount from the level of the sea to the base of the tower of the chapel is 231 feet. The whole of the island consists of about seven acres, having at the foot of the mount, a level piece of ground, where is a wharf, and near it a considerable village. In the year 1727, Sir John Saint Aubyn rebuilt the pier, in consequence of which, the fishery revived, and the mount became a place of trade. It contains 50 houses and 223 inhabitants. A priory of Benedictine monks, afterwards changed to Gilbertines, was founded on St. Michael's Mount, previously to the year 1044, when King Edward the Confessor gave to the monks there dwelling, the mount, with all its buildings and appendages. It appears, by the charter, that there was at that time a castle, as well as a convent, on the mount. When the priory of St. Michael, which, by Robert Earl of Cornwall, had been made a cell to the monastery of St. Michael in Normandy, was seized by the crown during the wars with France, it was first given to King's College, Cambridge, and afterwards to the monastery of Sion, in Middlesex, to which it continued to be attached till its dissolution, when the lands belonging to it were valued at 110l. 12s. per annum. In the year 1533, the priory, with all its revenues, was granted to Humphrey Arundell, of Lanherne. He put himself at the head of a rebellion, which arose in 1549, on the subject of the reformation, but after some partial successes, was defeated by Lord Russell, in Devonshire, taken prisoner, and executed in London.
About the time of the restoration, the Saint Aubyn family became possessed of the Mount, by purchase from the Bassets; it is now extra-parochial, and the property of Sir John Saint Aubyn, Bart., of Clowance. His house at the Mount, is situated at the summit of the rock, and partakes, in its appearance, both of the castle and monastery, the interior has been greatly modernized since the account in Grose's Antiquities, vol. 8. p. 35, was written. The dining room, which was the refectory of the priory, has a remarkable frieze, representing the hunting of various animals; in the same room, are the dates 1641 and 1660. The chapel has been tastefully fitted up in modern times. On the very top of the tower, in one of the angles, are the remains of a lantern turret, called St. Michael's chair; the ascent to it is dangerous, but it is sometimes attempted, in consequence of a belief that whosoever sets therein, whether man or woman, will thenceforth have the mastery in domestic affairs.
St. Michael's Mount is chiefly composed of granite, and the passage to its summit, which is on the northern side, is extremely steep and craggy. The prospect hence ranges over the ocean and the environs of Mount's Bay.
The parish of St. Hilary, in which Marazion is situated, contains 268 houses and 2558 inhabitants, exclusive of the town, and consists of the hamlets of Higher and Lower Downs, Relubbas, Resudgian, Tregurtha, and Trevennor. The church, dedicated to St. Hilary, is a vicarage, value 11l. 6s., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter. In the chancel is a monument to Katherine, wife of John Saint Aubyn, of Clowance, and heiress of Francis Godolphin, of Treveneage, 1662.
MORVAH, on the northwestern coast, 6 miles N. from Penzance, and 7 miles W. from St. Ives, contains 54 houses and 325 inhabitants, including the hamlet of Tregaminian. It is a curacy to St. Madern. The parish church was rebuilt in the year 1833, on which occasion a hymn was written by the Rev. C. V. Le Grice ; one stanza alluded to the peculiar situation of it:—
PAUL, on the western point of Mount's Bay, 3 miles S.W. from Penzance, contains 690 houses and 3790 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Mousehole or Port Enys, and Newlyn, both upon the sea coast. The church, dedicated to St. Paulinus, Bishop of Rochester, is a vicarage, value 13l. 11s., in the patronage of the crown. In the chancel is a monument of William Godolphin, of Trewarveth, the last of the family, who died in 1689; and, in the church is a curious notice of its having been burnt by the Spaniards in 1595. The force of the fire is said to have consumed nearly the whole church, but there is a tradition that the southern porch escaped the flames; in confirmation of which, it may be mentioned, that when that porch was repaired, in the year 1807, one of the supporters was found to be partially burnt at that end nearest the body of the church.
Pilchard and mackarel fisheries are carried on both at Mousehole and Newlyn to a great extent. Fish of every kind which frequent this coast, are sent hence to Penzance; and most of the Cornish towns, and the London markets, in the early part of the season, are chiefly supplied from Newlyn and Mousehole, with mackarel, which is sent by way of Portsmouth. A quay was constructed at Mousehole, about the year 1392, and it is said to have been formerly a port of considerable trade. A chapel here, which had been a sea mark, was destroyed by the encroachment of the sea, before the year 1414. There was also a chapel, dedicated to St. Clement, on an island opposite Mousehole, which still bears that name.
Mr. Daines Barrington, who made a tour of Cornwall, in 1768, communicated to the Society of Antiquaries, an account of Dolly Pentreath, of Mousehole, the only person he could find who spoke the Cornish language, she died in January, 1778, ætat. 102. In 1776, it is stated, on the authority of a fisherman at Mousehole, that there were three, four, or five persons, besides himself, who could converse in Cornish. Dr. Pryce, of Redruth, was the author of Archæologia Cornu Britannica, an attempt to preserve the ancient Cornish language, &c., in 1790, but there is now no person who can converse in it.
PENZANCE, on the sea coast, in Mount's Bay, 73 miles W. from Launceston, 11 miles E. from the Land's End, and 283 miles from London, contains 1084 houses and 5224 inhabitants. The town is celebrated for the pleasantness of its situation, and is much frequented in winter on account of the mildness of the climate. Here is a considerable pilchard fishery, and an export trade for tin, copper, and fish; the imports are coals, groceries, cloth, and other articles of merchandize. Penzance was added as a fifth to the coinage towns, about the time of the restoration; all the tin is now coined at this town and at Truro. The weekly markets on Thursday and Saturday are well supplied with provisions of all sorts: that on Thursday is a considerable corn market. The annual fairs are 28th May, Thursday after Trinity Sunday, and Thursday before Advent Sunday. The town was originally incorporated, in the year 1614, and the charter was confirmed by King Charles II.; the corporation consists of a mayor, eight aldermen, twelve assistants, and a recorder. The chapel at Penzance, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, existed before the year 1612; it was enlarged in 1671, but was not consecrated till 1680, when the limits of the town were defined to be the limits of the chapelry to the vicarage of St. Madern: it has its own vestry, and maintains its own poor.
The town is stated to have been set on fire by a party or Spaniards, who landed near Mousehole, on the 23d July, 1595, the only Spaniards that ever landed in this kingdom as enemies: after setting fire to Newlyn and Mousehole, the Cornish men having rallied in great numbers, they quitted the coast without attempting any further hostilities.
About half a mile from the town, is the Wherry mine, which has not been worked since the year 1798, owing to the danger attending the progress of the works.
PERRAN UTHNOE, on the sea coast, 1½ miles E. from Marazion, contains 158 houses and 786 inhabitants, including the hamlet of Gold Sithney, at which a large fair is held on the 5th August, for cattle, clothes, hardware, &c. It is a rectory, value 17l. 11s. 5d., in the patronage of Sir Walter Trevelyan, Bart. In this parish is Acton Castle, a mansion on the sea side, built by John Stackhouse, Esq., which became afterwards the property of Buckley Praed, Esq.
PHILLACK, on the Bristol Channel, 4½ miles E. from St. Ives, and 9 miles N. from Penzance, contains 483 houses and 2529 inhabitants, including the several hamlets of Angallack, where the first tin smelting house was established, Guilford, Loggan, Venton Loggan, Hayle, and Hayle Copper House. The church, dedicated to St. Felix, is a rectory, with Gwithian, value 45l. 10s. 10d. At the port of Hayle, is a considerable trade with Wales for timber, coals, iron, and lime stone, and with Bristol, for earthenware, groceries, &c. It is one of the chief places of export for the copper ore of the western mines. At Hayle Copper House the smelting and refining copper and other manufactories are carried on upon a very extensive scale: the smoke arising from which, has destroyed all traces of vegetation on two estates in the parish. A market house has been built here, and a weekly market, on Saturday, established. At Cayle Castle is a farm house within the moat.
In this parish is Wheal Alfred, one of the richest mines now worked in the county; the produce of the mine is about 1000 tons of copper per month.
REDRUTH, in the midst of the mining district, 49 miles W. from Launceston, and 263 from London, contains 929 houses and 6607 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Plaingwary and Redruth Highway. The town principally consists of one long street, built on the side of an eminence, and has two weekly markets on Wednesday and Friday, the latter is a great corn market, said to be the best in the west of England. There are also three annual fairs, on 2d May, 3d August, and 12th October, chiefly for cattle and osier manufactures: the last is called roast goose fair. The town has increased during the last fifty years, in consequence of the working of the copper mines. The church, dedicated to St. Uny, is a rectory, value 20l., in the patronage of Lord de Dunstanville. It was rebuilt in 1770, and is situated nearly half a mile from the town.
Plaingwary, in this parish, was, as its name denotes, the playing place, and here are still the remains of one of the Rounds, in which the ancient Cornish plays were performed.
Two miles southward from Redruth is Carn Brê Hill, on the eastern side of which is Carn Brê Castle, erected on a ridge of rocks, nearly 700 feet above the level of the sea, and commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country.
SANCREED, 4 miles W. from Penzance, and about 6 miles from the Land's End, contains 182 houses and 1001 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Bejouans, Bosvennen, Botreah, Sellan, Trenuggo, and Tregonnibris. It is a vicarage, value 8l. in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Exeter.
SENNEN, or Senan, the most westerly village in England, near the Land's End, 85 miles W. from Penzance, contains 84 houses and 637 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Mayon, or Mean, Penrose, and Trevear. It is a curacy to the rectory of St. Burian. Mean is the last habitable place towards the Land's End. A large stone, called Table Mean, concerning which, there is a tradition that three kings once dined together at it, on a journey to the Land's End, which is in this hamlet; in which, is also a house, with a sign, inscribed on its western side, "The first Inn in England," and on its eastern side, "The last Inn in England." The Land's End, the most westerly promontory on this coast, is 391 feet above the level of the sea, and is distant exactly 290½ miles from Hyde Park Corner. It is composed of a magnificent group of rugged rocks, forming a barrier to the ceaseless roaring of the waves; on one of the rocks, called the Longships, about a mile from the Land's End, is a Lighthouse, erected in 1797, by Smith, under the direction of the Trinity House; the circumference of the tower, at its base, is 68 feet, and the height from the rock to the vane of the lantern, is 52 feet. The height of the granite rock, from the sea to the base of the Lighthouse, is 60 feet. The rocks on which it is situated, form a shelf, extending nearly two miles westward from the Land's End, and the highest part supports the building; so great are the dangers of the interval between the Lighthouse and the shore, that it is with difficulty a boat escapes from the obstacles to her passage, amongst which the sea rages with a degree of fury, caused by obstruction in its motion. There is generally a tremendous surf around these rocks, and in gales of wind, whole seas pass entirely over them, burying the Lighthouse with the spray. The light in the lantern is seen many leagues off at sea, by ships approaching the Land's End, and affords them an infallible guide, which warns them of the Longships and other rocks situated near that promontory. These rocks lie very much in the way of the navigation, and had occasioned the wreck of many vessels before the establishment of the Lighthouse.
Cape Cornwall and Whitsand Bay, are also in this parish; and it was at Whitsand Bay that King Stephen landed on his first arrival in England, also King John, on his return from the conquest of Ireland, and Perkin Warbeck, in the reign of Henry VII. Near this Bay is the site of Castle Mean.
Ten leagues west by south from the Land's End, and in a clear day, seen from it, are the Scilly Islands, situated in a group or cluster, twenty-seven in number, besides inlets and rocks. A small island, containing only one acre, gives its name to the whole cluster, Scilly or Sully. The names of the islands, with an estimation of the quantity of land contained in each, are as follow. Five larger islands are St. Mary, 1520 acres, besides the garrison, 120 acres, joined to the isthmus; Tresco, 880 acres; St. Martin, 720 acres; St. Agnes, 300 acres, besides the Gugh, 90 acres; joined at low water; and Bryer, 330 acres. One island, inhabited by a single family, Sampson, 120 acres. Four scattered islands bearing grass; St. Helens, 80 acres; Tean, 70 acres; White Island, 50 acres; Annet, 40 acres. Ten eastern islands, stocked with conies, and fit for feeding cattle in summer; Great Arthur, 30 acres; Great Ganilly, 20 acres; Great Gannick, 18 acres; Minewithin, 15 acres; Nornour, 13 acres; Little Arthur, 7 acres: Little Ganilly, 6 acres; Little Gannick, 5 acres; Ragged Island, 5 acres; Innis Vouls, 4 acres; and seven scattered islands, placed about, the largest, Mincarlo, 12 acres; Guahall, 10 acres; North Withall, 9 acres; White Island, near Sampson, 7 acres; Round Island, 3 acres; Scilly Island, one acre; and Rat Island, half an acre. In all, comprising 4486½ acres of ground, of which, at least, half are tillable and improveable: and besides the above named, which are the most noted, there may be numbered about a dozen small islands, bearing grass, and innumerable rocks above the water.
The Duke of Leeds, as representative of the Godolphin family, is owner of the Scilly islands, in whom also the government of the islands is vested. The lord proprietor appoints a court or council of twelve of the principal inhabitants, amongst whom are the military commandant, the steward, the chaplain, and the commissary of musters. The court generally sits monthly, for the trial of suits, &c. between inhabitants of the islands, and excepting in such causes as affect life, which are cognizable by the court of admiralty. Persons accused of murder, burglary, &c., are sent to be tried at the assizes for the county of Cornwall. The Scilly islands are deemed to be under the spiritual jurisdiction of the Bishop of Exeter. Formerly the curate of St. Mary's, in the presentation of the Duke of Leeds, was the only clergyman in the islands, where a register of baptism and marriages was kept for the whole. There are now chapels at Tresco, St. Martin's, St. Agnes, Bryer, and Sampson, mostly built by the Godolphin family, since the reformation.
St. Mary's island is above nine miles in circumference. Hugh-town is the principal village. The pier, having been constructed in 1750, vessels of 150 tons burthen may ride here in safety. About two furlongs eastward is Porthmellin, where is procured in abundance a fine white sand, much esteemed as a writing sand, and for other purposes. Church Town is about a mile from Hugh Town, and bordering on the sea, is Old Town, and near it the Giant's Castle, on a promontory, traces of an ancient fortification. On the western side of the island are St. Mary's garrison, barracks, batteries, and star castle, built by Sir Francis Godolphin, in 1593. In was in this castle that Dr. John Bastwick was imprisoned, by the court of star chamber, in 1637, and liberated by order of parliament in 1640. On St. Agnes Island is a lighthouse.
In the passage from Penzance, about midway between that town and the Scilly Islands, is the Wolf, a dangerous ledge of rocks, so called from the continued howling made by the waves in breaking round it. Other rocks, named the Bucks, the Rennel-stone, and the Seven Stones, also render the passage dangerous. It was on the Gilston rock, near the Bishop and his Clerks, that Sir Cloudesley Shovel's ship, the Association, struck, during a fog, on 22d October, 1707, she sunk immediately, and every soul on board perished, the admiral's body was afterwards washed on shore at Porthelick Cove, on St. Mary's Isle.
TOWEDNACK, 2½ miles S.W. from St. Ives, contains 110 houses and 582 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Amalibry, Amalvear, Amalwidden, Bossow, Breja, Nancledry, Skilly Waddon, and Trevidgia. The church, dedicated to St. Edwin, is a curacy to Lelant. The churchyard was consecrated in 1541, since which time it has been esteemed a separate parish. It formerly belonged to the college of Crediton.
ZENNOR, on the northern coast, 4 miles W. from St. Ives, and 7 miles north from Penzance contains 122 houses and 715 inhabitants, including the hamlets of Boswednack, Treen, and Trewy. The church, dedicated to St. Sennar, is a vicarage, value 5l. 5s., in the patronage of the Bishop of Exeter. The greater part of the parish is a mass of moor stone, the only cultivated land being a strip of about half a mile in breadth, near the sea; the arable land is particularly noted for its abundant produce of barley.