ORNWALL, of old CORNUBIA; so called from its waxing smaller and smaller, in manner of a horn, and thrusting it self forth into the Sea, with little Promontories. This Shire is seated the most Western of any County of England, and bordereth on the East with Devonshire, from which in most places it is severed by the River Tamer, which looseth it self in Plimouth Haven; Its other parts are washed by the Sea, so that it may not improperly be esteemed a Peninsula.
It was formerly of a far larger extent then now it is; for according to ancient Chronicles,'tis said that Brute landed at Totnes in Cornwall, a Town now seated in the heart of Devonshire. And until the time of Athelstanes (who hemmed them within their present limits) the Cornish-men bare equal sway in Exeter with the English; likewise the encroaching Sea hath taken from it the whole Country of Lionness, with several other parcells of ground of no small extent.
And that there was such a Country of Lionness, these proofs are yet remaining: The space between the Lands end and the Isles of Scilly, being about 30 miles, to this day reteineth that name, which in Cornish is called Lethowsow, and carrieth a continual equal depth of about 40 or 60 Fathom except that about the midst there lyeth a Rock, which at a low water sheweth its head. That Fishermen casting in their Hooks thereabouts, have drawen up pieces of Windows and Doors; likewise the ancient name of St. Michaels Mount, Cara Clowse in Cowse that is, in English, The hoar Rock in the Wood; and at some low Ebbs, great roots of Trees are discovered in the Sands.The present extent of this County is, in length from Launceston in the East, to the Lands-end in the West, is about 70 miles; and its breadth, where broadest, is not above 35; and at the narrowest, and most Westwards, not above 3; but by reason of its several Promontories which it thrusteth forth into the Sea,its circumference maketh about 150 miles.
This County and Devonshire, as lying the farthest into the Sea Westwards, makes their Ports to be very well frequented by Sea-men, as well in their Voyages outward bound, to take their farewels of England;as at their returns home, in desiring to set footing on English ground; which doth occasion a good trade in these parts.
The Air is subtile and pure, and more apt to preserve then to recover health, especially to Strangers. The Spring is not so forward as in the more Eastern parts of this Kingdom, which doth occasion a later Harvest; they seldome housing all their Corn till Michaelmass; and although their Spring and Harvest are found thus late, their Winter is milder then in those Eastern parts, but subject to storms, which oft-times doth much anoy the Inhabitants.
It is generally very hilly, consisting ordinarily of Rocks and Shelfs, but crusted over with a shallow earth, and more inclined to sterility then fertility: but the parts towards the Sea, by reason of the industrious Husbandman in manuring the ground with sand and orewood taken from the sea shore, beareth good corn, and feedeth store of sheep, and other Cattle. And the middle part (except the inclosures about some Towns and Villages) lyeth waste and open, bearing Heath and spiry Grass, and serveth chiefly to sommer Cattle. It is generally very bare of Wood and Timber Trees.
The chief Hills in this County are those of Godolphin, Rowtor, Hinxson, St. Agnes, Brownwelly, the four Boroughs, Haynborough, Carnbray, Roche, the two Castellan, Dennis, &c,
The several fresh streams that spring from the Hills, well water the ground; on the South part are the Foy, Newton, Dranes, Lo, Fala, Seaton, Loo, Liner, Tavy and the Tamer; and on the North the Camell and the Halæ
; and most of these Rivers have their influx into the Sea, where they afford good Creeks and Bays.
This County hath great store of Game both for the Hawk and Hound;and its Seas and Rivers plenty of several sorts of excellent Fish and Fowl, as well those common to other Counties as appropriate to themselves.
It graizeth good store of Cattle, and their Horses, though of a low stature, are very serviceable and hardy.
The Inhabitants, or Cornish People, as to their names and language do hold great affinity with the Welch, but more easie to be pronounced, and not so unpleasant to the ear. They are esteemed excellent Wrestlers; the Gentry are well accomplished, and the people generally are inclined to hospitality, and making merry meetings; which said Feastings are not without several Pastimes and Recreations for the exercise of the body, as wrestlling, hurling, and the like. They were known to the Romans under the name of the Danmonii's, who according to Diodorus Seculus, were a courteous, yet valiant people; and afterwards became part of the ancient Kingdom of the West-Saxons.
In the bowels of the earth lye hid Quarries of sundry sorts of useful stones and sllates for buildings; also copper, precious stones, called Cornish Diamonds, and some silver; but chiefly Tynn, which carrieth the Bell from all others, which is here found in great plenty, to the much enrichment of the Inhabitants by the sale thereof to most places of Christendom, or rather to the known traded World.
As concerning the working and coinage of the Tynn, as also of the laws & customs observed by the Tynners I shall borrow from Mr. Carew his Survey of Cornwall, where he treateth thereof at large; a brief Accompt whereof here followeth.
These Mines or Tynn-works are found out by certain Tynn-stones, lying on the surface of the earth, or but shallowly covered, which they call shoad, as fallen from the main Load. The colour both of the shoad and Load resembleth his Bed, as the Sea sand doth the Cliffs, and is so diversified to blackish, duskie, reddish, and such other earthy colours.
If the Load where the Tynn lyeth, carrieth a foot and a half in breadth, and be not over-barren, it is accounted a very rich work; but except many Loads run together, it seldom exceedeth a foot.
If the work is large, and therefore requireth many hands, they have an Overseer, which they call their Captain, whose office is to alot each Workman his Task, and to see them perform the same: Also to look after the preservation of the said Work, placing Pumps for the drawing out of the water, and the like.
The labour being so hard, the Workmen seldom work above four or five hours at a time.
In the working in these Load-mines, the loose earth oft-times falleth down to the loss of a mans life; likewife the unsavory damps are very prejudicial unto them.
Before theTynn is brought to perfection, it passeth through divers hands; for after it is dugg up, and brought above ground in the Stone, it is broken in pieces, then it is carried to the Stamping-Mill to be broke smaller; and if the stones are over-moist, they are dryed by the fire in an iron Grate, or Cradle. From the Stamping-Mill it passeth to the Crazing-Mill, which bruiseth it to fine sand: but in stead of the Crazing-Mill, they now oft-times use wet Stampers; then they wash the earth from the Tynn. This done, every Owner carrieth his proportion to the Blowing-house, where the same is melted, and cast into pieces of 3 or 400 pound weight, and the Owners mark set thereon; and the last business to be done, is the conveying it to the place of coynage.
The Towns especially priviledged for the Coynage of Tynn, are Truro, Helston, Listwithiel and Liskerd;and the times of Coynage are twice in the year; viz.about Midsomer and Michaelmass. The Officers deputed for the management of coynage, are Porters to bear the Tynn, Peizers to weigh it, also a Warden, Steward, Comptroller, and a Receiver to keep the Accounts.
The black Tynn is measured by the Gill, the topliss, the Dish, and the Foot, and conteineth a Pint, a Pottle, a Gallon, and towards two Gallons.
The Tinners by their Charter have great Priviledges and Immunities granted them; as keeping of Courts called Stannery Courts, where all Controversies, wherein either Plaintiff or Defendant dealeth in black or white Tynn, are decided, and not in any other Court, either to sue, or be sued.
The chief Officer is called the Warden of the Stannery, who supplyeth the place both of Judge for the Law, and a Chancellor for Equity. The Goal for the Stannery causes is kept at Lothwithiel, once every three weeks. Cornwall, as an entire Estate, hath at divers times enjoyed fundry Titles, as a Kingdom, Principality, Dutchy, and Earldom, as Mr. Carew in his Description of this County, pag.77. doth at large treat of. And the eldest son of the King, whether by birth, or death of his elder Brother, without creation, is Duke of Cornwall.
Here were in former times dispersed in this County several ReligiousHouses, as Priories at St. Germains, Bodman, and Tywardreth. Nunneries at St. Martyn. Fryeries at Launston, Truro, and Bodman. Colledges at Peryn, Burien, and Crantock.And Hospitals at Heston.
And in the time of Paganism, here was said to be built a Temple by one Cunedeg, and dedicated to Apollo.
In this County were several ancient Castles and Forts, most of which are now reduced to ruin, being said to be raised by the Danes.
Here are several Borough and Towns Corporate, as St. Austle, Bodman, Bossiny, Camelford, Foy, St. Germains, Grampond, Helston, St.Ives, Kellington, Launceston, Liskerd, Listwithiel, East Low, West Low, St. Mawes, Newport, Penryn, Saltash, Tregony, and Truro.
This County is severed into nine Hundreds, whose names are set down in the Mapp; which said Hundreds are divided into four divisions of the Justices of the Peace, and the usual and convenientest places of assembly for the East division is Liskerd; for the South, Columbe; for the West, Helston; and for the North division, Camelford; And for the general assembly for the whole County, Bodman.
In these nine Hundreds, there are numbred 161 Parish Churches, and for the accommodation of the Inhabitants, hath entercourse of traffick with twenty three Market Towns, of which in order. Launston, or Launceston, anciently tearmed Lanstaphadon, by interpretation St. Stephens Church, seated on a branch of the Tamer, and on the pitch of a pretty Hill, which of two Boroughs, Downevet and Newport is grown ( as it were ) into one Borough, by the joyning of the Parishes of St. Thomas to St. Stephen. It is a large Town Corporate, where the Assises are held, is a Town of good Trade, well inhabited; and its Market, which is on Saturdays, is well frequented and served with provisions. The Government is committed to the care of a Major, and his Brethren: and amongst other immunities, it sendeth Burgesses to Parliament. Near adjoyning to this Town is an ancient Castle, seated on a great eminency, and environed at the top with a treble Wall, where there was a Colledge of Chanons, and secular Priests; The lower part now compriseth a decayed Chappel, a large Hall, and a place made use of for the common Goal. A little without the Town standeth the old Priory. And although Newport is thus fallen to decay, yet ceaseth it not to send Burgesses to Parliament. Liskerd, scituate in a level, a Town Corporate, and governed by a Major, eight Magistrates, a Recorder, with other Sub-Officers ; hath an eminent Free-School, the ruins of an ancient Castle, which once was of great note, sendeth Burgesses to Parliament; and is a large, well inhabited and frequented Town, whose Market, which is on Saturdays, is well served with corn and all provisions; and the Inhabitants drive a very great trade for Yarn every Market-day, which they vend to Exeter, and other parts, to their great profit. Bodman, seated betwixt two high Hills in a Bottom, which rendreth it very unhealthful to the Inhabitants, especially to new commers. It chiefly consisteth of one long street; and the many decayed houses witness it to have been once very populous, large, and of a good account. It is a Town Corporate, governed by a Major and his Brethren, electeth Parliament men, and was once one of the priviledged Towns for the coynage of the Tynn; and here the Bishop of Cornwall heldhis See, until the Danish Pirates (who fired the Pallace) forced them to remove to St. Germains; and upon the removal thereof, here was a Priory and a Fryory. The Town at present is large, well built and inhabited, and hath a very considerable Market on Saturdays for corn and provisions.
In the Parish of St. Cleere, not far from Liskerd, is a piece of Antiquity called Half-stone, being two stones which seemeth to have been broken or cut asunder, which are, or were curiously hewed and wrought, with an inscription of strange characters upon them. And not far distant from these stones in an open Plain, are certain other stones somewhat squared, and fixed to the ground, being placed upright in a due diftance; and these stones bear the name of the Hurlers: And almost adjoyning to these stones, is a heap of Rocks called the Cheese-wring, as formed like a cheese. Listhyel, or Listwithiel, the ancient Uzella of Ptolomy, which stood in former time upon a high Hill, where the old Castle Lestormel sheweth its ruins. This Town is seated on the River Foy, not far from its fall into Foy haven, which formerly brought up Vessels to the very Town, but its channel being now choaked up (by reason of the Tynn-mines) is a great obstruction to its Trade, yet as a Town Corporate (though but mean to what it was) 'tis governed by a Major and his Brethren, and electeth Parliament men. It hath its part in the coynage of the Tynn; but the Goal for the whole Stannery, and the keeping of the Courts is only here kept. It hath likewise the conveniency of a Market on Fridays, which is but small.
Nigh unto this Town, now standeth the ruins of that once large, strong, pleasant and stately Castle of Lestormel. (under whose subjection this Town formerly was) being the seat of the Dukes of Cornwall. Foy, so called from its Haven, or Arm of the Sea on which it is seated, being strongly fortified, fenced, and guarded at the entrance of the Haven with Block-houses; and in former times was a place very considerable for shipping and traffick, being said to have had belonging to its Port at one time, sixty sail of ships, and was renowned for Sea-fights. Its Market, which is on Saturdays, is very good for corn and provisions.
A little before Foy the land openeth with a large and sandy Bay, which receiveth the over-flowings of the Sea, which with the Village adjoyning is called Trawardreth. West Looe, scituate betwixt Hills, and on a navigable Creek, near the south Sea, over which it hath a fair Bridge, susteined by many Arches, which leadeth to East Looe, more commodiously seated, but not of so much antiquity; where there is an indifferent good Market on Saturdays. They are both Towns Corporate, and send Burgesses to Parliament; and the chief benefit arising to the Inhabitants of these Towns is their fishing. The Town towards the Sea, for its further security, is fenced with a garretted wall. Almost opposite to the Barred Haven of Looe is St. George's Isle, of a very small circuit, where in the season of the year, a very great abundance of Sea Fowl, or Sea Pyes, breed upon the Stroud, where they lay and hatch their Eggs without the trouble of building of Nests. Saltash, seated on the descent of a steep Hill, consisting of three streets, which are clean washed from filth by every showre of rain. It is a Town Corporate, governed by a Major, and nine Aldermen; enjoyeth large immunities, and sendeth Burgesses to Parliament. 'Twas formerly a large and well frequented Market Town, whose Market is on Saturdays, but of late much decayed to what it was; yet its Inhabitants gain well by traffick, but principally by Mault, and good Beer.
Not far from Saltash in the Parish of St. Stephens is Trematon Castle, once a place of great note, in which is kept the Trematon Court, wherein all sorts of causes within the said Fee are tryed, as also the Prison. St. Germains, once the largest Town in the County, being the See of a Bishop, and a place well frequented and inhabited, and the rather by reason of its Fishing Trade. It is at present a small Borough Town, having the election of Parliament men, and a Market on Fridayes, not very considerable. Here was in former time a Cathedral, once a stately Fabrick with two Towers, now made use of for their Church: and adjoyning to the said Cathedral is a Priory, at present kept in good repair. Stratton, scituate in a good soil, betwixt two Rivulets which here unite themselves, and at a small distance fall into the Sea at Beeds Haven. It hath a Market on Tuesdays, which is well served with corn and provisions. And the Inhabitants reap a good profit from their Gardens and Orchards, and that chiefly for their Garlick. Camelford, seated on the River Camel, a Town Corporate, governed by; a Major, and other Sub-officers; sendeth Burgesses to Parliament; and its Market, which is on Fridayes, is but indifferent.
Upon the River Camel, not far from Camelford, was fought a sore conflict between King Arthur and his treacherous Nephew Mordred, wherein the one received his death, and the other his mortal wound.
Not far from Camelford on the North shore, is seated Tintagil Castle;more famous for its antiquity, then note-worthy for its present Estate; yet its ruins shew it to have been once a place of good repute. Half the Buildings were raised on the Continent, and the other half on an Isle, which formerly were joyned together by a Bridge; but now severed by the overthrow of the steep Clifts on the farther side, which though it shut out the Sea from his wonted recourse, hath added much strength to the Isle. On the top of the Hill (which now serveth to feed Sheep and Coneys) was anciently a Chappel, and a Hermits cave: The farthest point of this Hill is called Black-head, and is a place not unknown to Seamen. In this Castle (as 'tis reported) the noble Arthur was begotten by the renowned Uter Pendragon: and under the Isle runneth a Cave, through which at full Sea, a Boat may be rowed, but not without some horror and amazement to the Passenger. Padstow, a Haven Town on the North coast of this County, hath the election of Parliament men: Its Market is on Saturdays, which is well served with corn and provisions, and is a place of some Trade; and the rather for its commodious scituation with Ireland, from which it is distant not above 24 hours sail, which makes it to be better inhabited then otherwise it would be, its great obstruction being its unsafe Haven.
Farther within the Land is Wade-bridge, being the fairest and strongest Stone-bridge in the County, susteined by about twenty Arches. St. Colombe, seated on the top of a Hill, on the bottom of which is a River, which at a small distance falleth into the Sea. It hath a very good Market for corn and provisions on Thursdays. At this Town the Justices of the Peace for the South division ordinarily meet.
Nigh unto St. Columbe is Michell a mean Borough Town, which hath the election of Parliament men. Grampond, on the River Valle, a mean Town Corporate, but of great antiquity, sending Burgesses to Parliament; and hath a Market on Saturdays. The Inhabitants here drive a considerable Trade for Gloves here made, for which it is of good note. Tregnye, seated on a Creek of Falmouth Haven, a place much decayed, yet as a Town Corporate, sendeth Burgesses to Parliament. It hath a Market on Saturdays; and was formerly strengthened with a Castle, which is now decayed. Roseland, a certain circuit of fertile ground, which conteineth Several Parishes; feedeth great flocks of sheep; and here is Falmouth Haven. Falmouth Haven, very commodious for Ships, and so large that 100 sail of Ships may safely ride at Anchor. At the entrance of the said Harbour lyeth a craggy Rock, which the Inhabitants call Crage, but is no wayes disadvantageous to shipping; For at low water it sheweth it self, and at Flood it is known by a Pole affixed thereon. And if Falmouth Haven be compared with that of Plimouth, it is observed that the Creeks of Falmouth are coasted with steep Shoars, whereas Plymouth is with plain, which rendreth it more delightful for prospect; and Falmouth the more safe for ships to ride in. Falmouth lyeth more in the way of Trade to wind-dnven ships than Plymouth; but Plymouth hath a more commodious out-let from its Catwater, for Saylers bound to the Westwards, and from Hamoase, for those that would sail to the East, then Falmouth. And this Haven with those of Plymouth and Milford (which deserve the first place) are the chiefest in the Kingdom.
The Town of Falmouth is now very large, to what it was formerly, (for about fifty years since, there was not above two or three Houses,) and doth now much encrease in its Buildings. It is a Town Corporate, governed by a Major and Sub-officers; is a place of good Trade, is well resorted unto by shipping, where there is a Key intended shortly to be built. And hath a Market on Thursdays, which is very considerable for corn and provisions.
On the West side, and at the very entrance of this Haven, there riseth a Hill called Pendennis, on which there was a Castle erected by order of King Henry the Eighth, for the better security of the Coast, being a place of good strength, as is St. Moze,or Maudit, on the other side of the Haven, but of a lower scituation. Truro, the present head Town in the County, seated on a Branch of Falmouth Haven, which here divideth it self into two streams, and almost encircleth its streets. It is a fair, large, well inhabited, frequented, and traded Borough Town, priviledged with a Majoralty, sendeth Burgesses to Parliament; hath the benefit of coynage of the Tynn, is the place where the Western Sessions are held; And its Markets, which are on Wednesdays and Saturdays, are well provided with all Provisions. Penrin, a very considerable Town, scituated also on a Creek of Falmouth Haven Westwards, a Town Corporate, which hath the election of Parliament men. Here are kept weekly three Marketsviz. on Wednesdayes and Fridayes, being for corn, and on Saturdayes for provisions. Helston, on the large (though not long) River Lowe, between which and the Sea, there is a great breach or bar of Sand. It is a well seated,inhabited, and frequented Town Corporate, governed by a Major and Aldermen, electing Parliament men; And its Market, which is on Saturdays, is well served with provisions; and the two Saturdays before Christmass, are very great Markets, which may be reckoned as Fairs. Not far from this Town is Godolphin-hill, sufficiently known for its good Tynn Mines. Market Jew, scituate on a Bay or arm of the Sea, called Monts Bay, very dangerous for shipping. The Town is but mean, and hath a small Market on Thursdays.
Not far distance from this Town is St. Michaels Mount, called the Hoar-rock in the Wood, severed from the main Land, by a sandy Plain, of a flight shot in breadth, which at Ebb-water may be passed over on foot. This Mount proudly raiseth its self to a great eminence; at the entrance of which, is an open Plain of some large-ness, which ending where the Hill beginneth, brings you to a winding and craggy Path, which leadeth to the top, which is a small Plain; the greatest part of which was taken up by an old Fort. It containeth lodgings for the Captain and the Souldiers: and hath a Chappel for Devotion. A little without the Castle, in a craggy place, is a seat called St. Michaels-chair. Under this Mount extendeth a Bay, called Monts-bay, being an indifferent good Road for small Vessels to ride at Anchor in. Nigh unto which is a strong Rock, called Main Amber, which lyeth as it were mounted on others of a smaller size, with so equal a counterpoise, that it may be stirred, but not moved out of its place. Penzance, seated on Monts-bay, and an inlet thereof, a very good traded Town; and hath a Market on Thursdays, which is very considerable, and well served with all provisions, especially Fish in great plenty. This Town suffered much by the Spaniards at their landing in these parts, in Anno 1595, who almost quite destroyed it by fire, with some other places near adjoyning. St. Ives, or St. Ithes, so called from one Ila an Irish woman, who here lived a religious life. It.is a Town Corporate, Governed by a Major, Justice, and twelve Aldermen, and sendeth Burgesses to Parliament. Its scituation is on a Bay so called, which lying open, and not being able to shelter it self from the impetuous Waves, which the North Sea powreth in upon it, makes it to be not much frequented, except by Fisher-men, for the taking of Pilchards, and other Fish, which are here taken in great plenty; yet hath it two Markets weekly, on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Having thus given you a brief account of its chief places within Land, my next business shall be to set down those of most note on its Sea-coasts,beginning on the South-shoar towards Plymouth in the East, and then the first place that offereth it self to view is Penlet-point. Then Causam-bay, an open and safe Road, much frequented by Fisher-men, during the season for the taking of Pilchards.
In the mouth of the Harbour lyeth St. Nicholas Isle, which although very small, yet is exceeding strongly fortified, and is subject to the Commander of Plymouth Fort, near adjoyning. Ram-head, a Promontory so called, on the top of which is a little vaulted Chappel, which serveth for a Sea-mark. Sythes-Bay. St. Michaels Isle. Talland-point. Black-bittle-point. Foy-haven already treated of. Trewardeth-bay. Guin-Rock. Dudman, a well known Fore-land to Sea-men. Gumdrath-bay. Cary-bay. Falmouth-haven already treated of. Helford-haven, which would be esteemed good, were it not for its vicinity to Falmouth.
The Nass-point, where the Land thrusteth it self forth into a Promontory; at the South-west point thereof is the Lezard, a place sufficiently known to Sea-men; and along the Shoar, it beareth the name of Goon-hilly Downs. Fetching a compass more Westwards, these places present themselves to view. Pendannor-point, St. Michaels Mount and Bay already taken notice of; near unto which is St. Clements Isle, a very small place, not far from the Shoar. Then Lamorny point, next the Lands-end, which is the moft Western part of this County and Kingdome, a place sufficiently known to Seamen. Also Whitland-Bay, and the Isles of Breland, Carraglouse, and Gull-rock, all three very small, especially the two last, which are seated near the Shoar.
Then going Northwards, the first place of note is St. Ives Bay, already treated of: Near unto which is a small Island called Gudreny 1sle. Next we come to Padstow-haven, and then to Beeds-haven, where the Coast of this County endeth.
Extracted from 'Britannia, or A Geographical Description of the Kingdoms of England, Scotland, and Ireland, with the Isles and Territories thereto belonging. And for The better perfecting the said Work, there is added an Alphabetical Table of the Names, Titles, and Seats of the Nobility and Gentry that each County of England and Wales is, or lately was, enobled with. Illustrated with a Map of each County of England, besides several General ones. The like never before Published. London, Printed by Tho. Roycroft for the Undertaker, Richard Blome. MDCLXXIII.'